In the early days of the pandemic, Dominick Buster and Azrael Essex started cooking out of their apartment to make money when they were laid off from their restaurant positions.
Fast forward three years: After outgrowing several takeout locations and balancing huge demand with limited capacity, D.A. Taste is finally open in its new home in Larkinville.
Sandwiched between Paula’s Donuts and Buffalo Distilling Company at 864 Seneca St., the new location can seat 70 people. There will be a patio during warm weather, ice cream options and soon, a full bar that specializes in mixed drinks.
Essex and Buster have dreams for more locations eventually, but for now, the pair are focusing exclusively on their Larkinville site and perfecting what they do best: making delicious, specialty tacos and pleasing their legions of devoted customers.
“We are truly a mom-and-pop taco shop,” Essex says. “We built this, and we care. We care about our people. We care about what we make. We care about who we interact with. We’re loyal to our community because they’re loyal back to us.”
Lines snaked down the block at their former location on Abbott Road, as the size of their cooktop and prep space severely constricted how much and how fast D.A. Taste could produce. Now? The wait time is anywhere from 10-30 minutes as they make each taco to order. Prices range from $6-$8 each, and Essex says customers get their money’s worth.
“It’s not your basic taco,” she says. “It’s 8 ounces or 10 ounces of meat, plus toppings. We don’t skimp anywhere.”
That dedication extends to preparation. Meat is prepped no more than 48 hours in advance, produce is chopped fresh every morning, and queso and pico de gallo are made fresh daily as well.
“Your shell does not touch the grill until I see your order,” Essex says. “Truly everything is made to order. It’s fantastic, because that means that your taco is hot, it’s fresh. The beef is being chopped right there on the grill – obviously it took 10 hours to cook, but it’s made right there.”
Local artist Johnfredrick Daniels (find him on Instagram at @fredzdaartist) painted the interior with a rainbow of neon hues, including three attention-grabbing murals. Essex says they wanted bright and bold colors, with “good food that matches it.”
“It feels fun. It feels open. It feels inviting,” she says. “Our customers deserve this. We have some really loyal customers, and I didn’t want to disappoint them in any way.”
Taco Tuesday recommendations
“It’s not your basic taco,” co-owner Azrael Essex says of D.A. Taste's product. “It’s 8 ounces or 10 ounces of meat, plus toppings. We don’t skimp anywhere.”
Looking for tips on where to start at D.A. Taste? Owners Azrael Essex and Dominick Buster have you covered. Here’s their picks for a newbie (or anyone, really):
Beef birria: The crispy, cheesy flavor bomb that put them on the map. Your choice of house-braised beef or seasoned chicken, garnished with cilantro and white onion and served with a side of beef consommé.
Jerk chicken: Marinated grilled chicken, topped with fresh pineapple pico de gallo then drizzled with sweet and spicy habanero sauce.
Honey garlic fried chicken: Crispy fried chicken and house-smoked queso mac and cheese, drizzled with honey garlic sauce and topped with toasted sesame seeds and scallions.
D.A. Taste is currently open noon-7 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Hours are flexible, so please check the restaurant’s social media accounts for the most updated information.
