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Gusto

Eckl's@Larkin is an audacious attempt at building a steakhouse into a sprawling former industrial space while infusing it with the spirit of a historic family restaurant. The result is a restaurant with wide-open spaces and plush upscale decor where you can enjoy a credible beef on weck, but also take a deep dive into the steakhouse canon. Chairman's Reserve House Pr…

Gusto

When I choose a steakhouse for dinner, I have two expectations: big beef and big bucks. Since an excellent steak can be had in many local spots, when I choose a steakhouse, I'm making a point. I'm showing how much I value someone's company, renting a stage where we may engage in the fantasy that on this night, money is no object. Other patrons of Morton's, the steakhous…

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The heavy barn doors had oxen yokes for handles. I pulled hard and walked into a room scented with hardwood smoke and an undercurrent of sizzling beef fat that wrapped around me like an old quilt. It was my first time at Scotch ’N Sirloin, but it felt like coming home. You see, I grew up in a house with woodstove heat, plank floors and reclaimed beams, and I miss it. (As …

Buffalo

Since I’ve complained about restaurants making me feel old, I guess I should compliment E.B. Green’s for making me feel young again. The dining room did that even before I saw the menu, with expanses of shiny brass, red artificial flowers and gray hair, courtesy of fellow diners whose average age was well past AARP eligibility. I settled into my chair, comfy as a Barcaloun…

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Lewiston might be the East Aurora of Niagara County. It’s a village with historic bones and enough bustling businesses to make a wander down Main Street an interesting stroll instead of a maudlin vacancy census. Restaurants abound, with a barbecue joint, Italian red sauce and fine dining, family diners, Mexican fast food and Chinese takeout. What it didn’t have, until Cent…

On Wednesday, Buffalo Chophouse will raise the curtain on a “top-to-bottom overhaul” aimed at freshening up the city’s veteran steakhouse. Outside, there’s new signs and blacktop. Inside, new carpet, drapes, furniture workstations, and more. The place has gone through a “top-to-bottom” overhaul, said owner Mark Croce. “Since we opened the Chophouse in 2002, it’s been a m…

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If dining at Texas de Brazil, I suggest you park on the other side of Walden Galleria. Like, Macy’s. The resulting 20-minute walk lets you contemplate which buffet items are worth valuable stomach space. The stroll back can aid in digestion, as you reflect on which of the dozen kinds of grilled beef, chicken, pork and lamb was your favorite. The restaurant is styled after…

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Workers are rushing to get Texas de Brazil open by June 24 in the former Hyde Park Steakhouse at the Walden Galleria. The restaurant is a Brazilian churrascaria: waiters travel throughout the dining rooms from table to table with skewers of beef, lamb, pork, chicken and Brazilian sausage. Patrons can choose as many different kinds (and as many helpings) as they please, w…