Share this article

print logo
Erie County

Clarence’s Griffon Gastropub has gotten a lot of attention for the drinks it offers, starting with 100 beers on tap, or close to it. The restaurant’s food menu sneaks up on you under cover of the drinks hubbub, but when you read it the list of dishes is almost as eclectic.Case in point: corn fritters, a Southern recipe that has put down roots in the wilds of northern Erie …

Buffalo

From the day Oshun opened in the space that was once the Waldorf-Astoria’s lunch counter, the restaurant has tried to offer seafood dishes that were at least a little bit different. Fried catfish is given a smoky zing with bacon vinaigrette. Seared bay scallops are joined by contrasting plate partners like popcorn and tomatillos. Calamari takes a pineapple-tamarind sauce o…

Food and Drink

Until a recent burst of new restaurant investment, North Tonawanda didn’t have much of a reputation as a dining destination, unless your definition of dining stops at pizza, wings and fish fries.Then the Remington Tavern opened, the Dockside Bar & Grill expanded, and Webster’s Bistro replaced Nestor’s, a restaurant that specialized in hot dogs. The result is a delicious di…

Buffalo

Jack Adly is an Egyptian restaurateur, but there’s not much on the menus of his two Venus Mediterranean Grill restaurants that stands out as Egyptian, except for koshary, a dish of rice, pasta, fried onions and tomato sauce that’s considered one of Egypt’s national dishes.Most of his customers come for more familiar things, chicken wings or pan-Mediterranean favorites like…

Buffalo

Joe Kennedy started working at Spar’s European Sausage Shop as a sausage-making apprentice, learning his craft from Eric Spar, the shop’s owner. Kennedy and his wife, Beth, took over in 2005. Their shop offers a United Nations of fresh and smoked sausages: German, Polish, Italian, Hungarian, Ukrainian and Greek are just some of the possibilities. Bacon and smoked pork chop…

Erie County

I have eaten a lot of wacky things on pizza. Fishsticks? Not on my repeat list. Corn kernels? Yes, please.Yet my first bite of ’nduja pizza at Lackawanna’s Mess Hall left me staggered. If this is an established dish, where has it been all my life? If it’s an invention, the world must know.’Nduja is a spreadable Italian pork salami from  Calabria that is loaded with roasted…

Buffalo

At Hydraulic Hearth, the new Swan Street restaurant across from Larkin Square, there are bar stools set at a pizza bar, where diners can watch pizzas being baked in the gleaming white brick oven. When Chef Rick Gazzo finds himself explaining the restaurant to customers, he sometimes puts it this way: “We are a pizzeria, but we are not an Italian restaurant. We have meatbal…

Buffalo

In the ever-changing world of Buffalo fine dining, few places have stood the test of time like Rue Franklin. And on the menu of the French-inspired restaurant, nothing has pleased customers longer than the ile de flottante.The puff of meringue, floating on a sea of crème anglaise with a lacework of crunchy caramel and toasted almonds, has been on the menu since it became a…

Buffalo

Bacchus, on Chippewa Street a few blocks from Shea’s Performing Arts Center, is a restaurant with range. It’s the only place in Buffalo offering its customers both valet parking and potato skins as an appetizer.“I grew up cooking in those places, with potato skins on the menu,” said chef-owner Brian Mietus. Now he owns a white-tablecloth fine dining restaurant that gives i…

Food and Drink

From the day it opened last year, seafood has been central to Oshun, the restaurant now in the Art Deco-adorned space built as a Waldorf Astoria lunch counter. An oyster bar with bivalves piled on heaps of crushed ice is a focal point of the dining room, and innovative seafood preparations dominate the menu. But not everyone grooves on creatures of the sea, making it equa…

Food and Drink

Sazon Criollo is a corner restaurant on a one-way street in the lower West Side. There are a few tables, but most of the business is takeout. At lunchtime a curiously diverse line forms – some customers dressed in work-worn jeans, others sporting shirts and ties. That’s because this blue-collar eatery has a knack for tasty, reasonably priced Puerto Rican food that attract…

Food and Drink

If the winter has left you thinking you need a dose of comfort food, consider Kiki’s warm potato salad at Winfield’s Pub in Lackawanna.It’s potatoes, bacon and green olives in a gooey Velveeta bath. Made to order, sprinkled with scallions, it’s soothing and carb-dense enough to power a driveway’s worth of snow shoveling. It’s $5 as…

Food and Drink

The Art of Beer isn’t just about beer.Yes, the Niagara Arts and Cultural Center’s annual fundraiser happening from 6 to 9 p.m. Friday is a beer-centered event, offering ticket-holders a chance to try more than 50 kinds of beer, as well as a dozen snack stops.The event, now in its ninth year, also offers tastes of local cider from Chateau Buffalo. Carl Schmitt…

Food and Drink

When John Rooney and Laurie Kutas opened a restaurant in East Aurora 13 years ago, they decided not to sell chicken wings.“We refused to get involved with wings, out of respect to the other restaurants in town,” said Rooney. With Kutas, he opened Tantalus, which became Medici House in 2013, and Theas, an Ethiopian place and sister restaurant next door. After …

Featured

One way to judge if a restaurant has range is to look at its treatment of vegetables. Deep-frying animal proteins into crispy nuggets or crisping up another slab of braised pork belly for the plate are low-risk moves with high satisfaction rates. Taking vegetables seriously by giving one a starring role in a dish isn’t something every restaurant dares try. Sorry, fr…