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Gusto

If I could wave my gilded fork from my Critic’s Throne and make a wish come true, today’s would be to give people the courage to try raw fish. If you made a face reading that sentence, I’m talking to you. Most avoiders offer weirdness of concept as a barrier, to which I’d point out the widespread Western taste for dishes like beef carpaccio or steak tartare. Call it tun…

Gusto

Just because you’ve been eating your whole life doesn’t mean you’re any good at being a diner. Sure, you know how to pick a place, and decide what you want to eat. But if you’ve never worked in a restaurant, and can’t see the operation from the other side, chances are you’re leaving some satisfaction on the table. Recently, I asked restaurant professionals what detai…