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Gusto

Leonel Rosario's family journeyed from Oaxaca, one of the southernmost Mexican states, to pick fruit in the groves of the Niagara Escarpment. The Rosarios opened a small grocery in Medina, and named it after Monte Alban, the Oaxacan city built sometime around 500 B.C. Serving migrant farm workers, the grocery led to a taco trailer, then a nearby restaurant, Mariachi …

Food and Drink

Owners of a Medina Mexican restaurant are expecting to offer Oaxacan specialties along with more familiar fare when they take over the former Trattoria Aroma on North French Road in Amherst. Leonel Rosario started his cooking career in a taco trailer next to the Monte Alban Mexican grocery in Medina. Eight years ago, he opened Mariachi de Oro nearby. If all goes as p…

Gusto

As fat flakes of snow coat Mariachi De Oro in rural Medina, young local business owners find heated refuge for the evening inside its sandy orange dining room, slathering tacos in peanut butter hot sauce and downing mezcal shots. Leonel Rosario closed his restaurant early for his private tasting dinner. Around the table, guests boisterously talk business and family ove…

Gusto

This might sound like heresy, but: enough tacos. They might be the most popular Mexican meal of the moment, but I submit that taco myopia blinds us to the pleasures of the rest of the Mexican table. Stopping at tacos is like finishing your first hamburger and deciding that’s all the American food you want to try. Here’s 10 Mexican family restaurants where you can …

Food and Drink

Medina is about 50 minutes from Buffalo if you take the Thruway to the Pembroke-Darien exit and head north, a lovely drive in fair weather. I mention that for all the people in Buffalo who say how far they'd go for real Mexican food. Mariachi de Oro is a real Mexican restaurant, serving food by and for Mexicans. It's run by a family from Oaxaca who have operated Monte A…