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Gusto

Buffalo is known for three things: snow, sports teams that are 0-for-eternity championship-wise, and chicken wings. Could Buffalo pizza make it four? The Wall Street Journal recently published a front-page article on the spreading popularity of cup-and-char pepperoni, a sign that another one of Buffalo’s culinary specialties has started to get the attention it deserves.…

Gusto

The best-known flavors of Buffalo have been ladled from its deep melting pot of immigrant contributions. Buffalo got it wings from Italians, and beef on kummelweck has German roots. Texas hots and open-faced chicken souvlaki are credited to Greek restaurateurs. One day, perhaps, owno koksware will join them. The chicken noodle soup with the odd name is the most succe…

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Three and a half years ago, I was appointed restaurant critic of The Buffalo News. Some 200 restaurant reviews later, my view of my job has expanded a smidge. My core mission is still giving readers actionable intelligence on where to spend their dining dollars. Put another way, it’s my job to find and proclaim the best in Western New York’s eating life. “The best” is a …

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Step inside Riverside’s Lin Asian Market and restaurant at 927 Tonawanda St., and its sensory invitation starts french-fry fragrance of vegetable samosas. The clean market with dry goods, spices and exotic produce is next door to its companion Burmese restaurant and across the street from the neighborhood’s waterfront Riverside Park. The options inside reveal something ab…

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I’m not sure what Buffalo did to deserve Burmese restaurants, or if I even believe in civic karma to begin with, but this I do believe: they are a blessing. At once familiar and exotic, Burmese cuisine’s melding of Thai and Indian – two once-scary cuisines now blended into our dining vernacular – makes it one of the safest bets in town for seekers of edible adventure, offe…

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If you've been eating a lot of fried fish, for reasons celestial or mundane, here's a way to end Lent with a bang. I stopped by Lin Restaurant, 937 Tonawanda St., last night for dinner. It's a Riverside Burmese and Thai restaurant that opened in December. The crispy fried bass with Burmese chile-garlic-lime sauce grabbed my attention. It's mostly deboned, so you can gobb…

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On a cold and dreary night last month, I stopped by Riverside's new Burmese-Thai eatery, Lin Restaurant, for dinner. My table was the only one occupied for most of our time there, which is a crying shame. The dishes we tried were were full of flavor, heartwarming versions of Burmese and Thai dishes worth checking out for fans of Asian cuisine, and people just looking for …

Food and Drink

Hold the sandwich presses. A soup-and-sandwich restaurant called Roux will open in what was The Buffalo News’ fifth-floor cafeteria space. The restaurant, at One News Plaza, or Washington at Scott streets, opens Jan. 5. Operator Jason Davidson is an owner of Liberty Hound, and was an original owner of Fables Café in the downtown library. He said the menu will feature hou…

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Lin Restaurant, located across the street from Riverside Park, will introduce its menu of Burmese and Thai cuisine with a free buffet at noon Saturday. Owner Khin Maung Soe said he would offer guests a welcome buffet from noon to 6 p.m. on Saturday as a way of introducing the restaurant to the neighborhood. The restaurant, at 927 Tonawanda St., will also serve items from …

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A new restaurant featuring Thai and Burmese cuisine is coming to Black Rock. Lin Restaurant, 927 Tonawanda St., could be open for business by the end of November. Owner Khin Maung Soe said interior work has been finished, but some city inspections must be completed before it can open. Soe, a Karen Burmese immigrant, has been operating Lin Asian Market, 113 Grant St. sinc…