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Five years ago, Adam Goetz brought forth on Hertel Avenue a dining room dedicated to the proposition that Western New York’s vegetables, fruit and meat were the equal of any on earth. At a time when a Buffalo chef can summon the wealth of the planet via a plane, Goetz bet the success of Craving on ingredients delivered by pickup truck. He learned to mesh farmers’ produc…

Food and Drink

Chef Adam Goetz is one of a small but growing group of Buffalo restaurateurs whose pursuit of the best ingredients has driven them to build relationships with local farmers. On April 24, at his restaurant called Craving, 1472 Hertel Ave., Goetz is holding a fundraising dinner for Erba Verde Farms. The star will be a veal calf. Unlike factory-farmed veal, the calf was rai…

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Chef Adam Goetz is one of a small but growing group of Buffalo restaurateurs whose pursuit of the best ingredients has driven them to build relationships with local farmers. On April 24, at his restaurant called Craving (1472 Hertel Ave.), Goetz is holding a fundraising dinner for Erba Verde Farms. The star will be a veal calf. Unlike factory-farmed veal, the calf was ra…

Food and Drink

Fresh pasta is a daunting task for restaurants, requiring significant investments. Sometimes it requires expensive equipment, but it always demands cooks skilled in forming its shapes and cooking them in the narrow time window fresh pasta allows. Here’s to places that make housemade pasta a priority. 1) Ristorante Lombardo, 1198 Hertel Ave., 879-4291 Pasta dish: T…

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Through the relationship between ambitious local chefs and nearby farmers, several Buffalo restaurants have embraced the farm-to-table movement to offer diners seasonally fresh dishes that are expertly prepared. In Andrew Galarneau's New-School Buffalo food manifesto -- an article inspired by Craving chef Adam Goetz's dinner at the James Beard House in New York City -- th…

Buffalo

We were somewhere around the third course, cavatelli pasta with lamb neck ragu, when the epiphany began to take hold.It happened last week, after I flew to Manhattan for dinner. Adam Goetz, of Craving on Hertel Avenue, was offering “Summer’s End Farm Feast,” six courses with wine, at the James Beard House. Getting an invitation to cook there has been compared to an Emmy no…

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Craving chef-owner Adam Goetz will be showcasing his farm-to-table talents in a Sept. 15 "Summer's end farm feast" in Manhattan. The invitation to cook at the James Beard House will give the chef a chance to demonstrate how far his menu has come. In 2013, Goetz cooked at the culinary foundation’s New York City townhouse as a part of a Nickel City Chef team. Working with …

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In three years and change, I’ve reviewed 173 restaurants in Western New York. (There are excellent places I haven’t reviewed yet, for which you have my apologies.) Of those, here are 20 places I recommend first. I rate restaurants on a scale of plates, with 10 being my top rating. Plates are an indicator of overall happiness, with quality of food, service, room and pric…

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The 2015 season of Nickel City Chef adds Edward Forster of Buffalo Proper as the fifth member of the "home team." Those chefs will compete against other up-and-coming culinary talents in five live hour-long cooking battles this spring. Forster's cooking helped put Buffalo Proper on my list of best new restaurants of 2014. Tickets go on sale at 10 a.m. Friday. They usuall…

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When Adam Goetz moved his restaurant operation from Allen Street to Hertel Avenue last year and opened Craving (1472 Hertel Ave.), he changed more than a ZIP code. He changed the style of the restaurant, from focusing on tiny, deconstructed dishes to an eclectic menu punctuated with heartier choices. One of the sandwiches he started with is still on the menu: the croque m…