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Gusto

In search of Italian-American cuisine worth celebrating, I have encountered miles of pallid pasta and oceans of weak tomato sauce. There have been bright spots, certainly, places with plenty of dishes to recommend. But of the 20-something red sauce purveyors whose Southern Italian dishes I've had the privilege to evaluate, none ran the table. Then I went to Sinatra's. …

Food and Drink

A restaurant must be a cut above the rest for News Food Editor Andrew Galarneau to award 10 out of 10 plates in a dining review. The food does not necessarily have to be perfect, but the entire experience -- from decor to efficiency to noise level -- must meet the lofty standards of a food writer who's eaten at hundreds of local restaurants. In light of his 10-plate revi…

Food and Drink

A restaurant must be a cut above the rest for News Food Editor Andrew Galarneau to award 10 out of 10 plates in a dining review. The food does not necessarily have to be perfect, but the entire experience -- from decor to efficiency to noise level -- must meet the lofty standards of a food writer who's eaten at hundreds of local restaurants. In light of his 10-plate revi…

Featured

Decades ago, as a teenager in late summer, I helped a farmer get his sweet corn to the Clinton-Bailey market. In the field before dawn, we wrenched fat ears from cornstalks drenched with dew. On break I stripped cobs and gorged on the freshest corn ever until the milk ran down my chin. I hadn’t thought of those mornings for years until last week, when a spoonful of Carmelo…

Buffalo

For years, I’ve badgered Buffalo diners for the names of their favorite restaurants with the unflattering tenacity of a dachshund on a chicken bone. One name kept resurfacing, like that guy who pops up in your Facebook feed with bewildering frequency. Except this name was offered as a confession. “I’m sorry,” an urbane and well-traveled friend told me. “I don’t really have…