Skip to main content
You are the owner of this article.
You have permission to edit this article.
Edit
At Zambistro, a fine place for a memorable meal

At Zambistro, a fine place for a memorable meal

Support this work for $1 a month
Zambistro in Medina facade

Zambistro is at 408 Main St. in Medina. 

In recent years, hungry people in Orleans County have found a growing number of excuses to head for Medina. There they can find classy little cafés and Mexican enchiladas, Irish Guinness stew and hipster basics like avocado toast with a poached egg. There’s even more coming, with a chic restaurant planned to anchor the restored Bent’s Opera House. Because of pandemic uncertainty, like so many other plans, it’s on hold.

Covid-19 didn’t stop Zambistro, though. Anchoring the Main Street strip since 2005, Michael Zambito’s place finished construction on a balcony patio and expanded first-floor dining space. All that extra room comes in handy in a time of social distancing.

Zambistro in Medina dining room

The second dining room at Zambistro.

Folks who happen across Zambistro on the way back from picking apples at LynOaken Farms can be forgiven a double-take at the menu. Parisian bistro? Uptown pasta house? It’s not easy to pigeonhole, unless you just call it the finest restaurant in Orleans County.

There’s white paper over tablecloths to set the stage for a display of culinary creativity, along with the usual burgers and pasta with meatballs.

Foie gras was on the menu – as a little pitcher of gravy the diner pours over first-class, housemade french fries, pointed up with scallion and tender diced duck niblets. Bound by melted white cheddar curds that stretched like taffy, Zambito’s duck fries ($15) were an exuberant upgrade of standard poutine. If duty did not compel me to sample sparingly, my meal would have ended there.

Zambistro in Medina duck fries

The duck fries at Zambistro are hand-cut with roasted duck breast, white cheddar cheese curds and foie gras duck gravy.

The first tuna package I saw was at Toro, the Elmwood tapas bar. But here it was in Medina ($15), allowing us to enjoy an ingot of tuna rolled in bread crumbs, seared and sauced. Sour, saucy Bing cherries and spicy mayonnaise provided a diverting context for the mostly rare fish to disappear.

Zambistro in Medina tuna package

The tuna package is panko-crusted ahi tuna served rare with Bing cherries and spicy mayonnaise. 

Fried olives ($9) are a crispy, briny treat for olive lovers, a classy little nibble with a glass of wine. Or a martini, if that’s the way you swing.

A warm, grapefruit-sized loaf of bread arrived with two butters, standard and birthday cake. You read that right. Birthday cake butter, like a cake mix beaten into butterfat. Don’t make that face when you know you would spread buttercream frosting on bread if no one was looking. And I’d be lying if I said that birthday cake butter was left behind for our server to clear.

Salmon might be the most cliché-ridden seafood, but at Zambistro the ubiquitous fish ($30) was freshly grounded in the Italian canon, a Norwegian fillet seared and splayed over a bowl of gnocchi, beans and greens and broth.

This was a dish to hunker over with a handful of bread. Pasta pillows, slightly bitter escarole greens, saltiness of pancetta and the earthiness of beans made me want to slow down and take it all in.

Zambistro in Medina salmon, beans and greens

The seared salmon is an 8-ounce Norwegian salmon, potato gnocchi, sautéed escarole, Italian white beans and pancetta bacon.

Zambito’s Beef Stroganoff ($32) certainly has the potential to be controversial.

Stroganoff is a pasta dish, and Zambistro’s has that, with ribbons of noodles wider than fettuccine. There was creamy sauce in abundance, pointed up with brandy. What threw me off was the beef: sliced steak.

Don’t get me wrong: I love sliced steak, and this was good stuff, cooked accurately. But stroganoff has usually meant braised beef tenderness to me.

Zambistro in Medina (copy) chicken cutlet with feta potatoes

The chicken entrée is crispy panko-breaded chicken breast with prosciutto and feta crushed potatoes, lemon-herb aioli, wilted arugula and shaved Romano cheese.

Crispy panko-coated chicken cutlet ($25) got a satisfying reboot at Zambistro, still topped with arugula salad but resting on a foundation of crushed skin-on potatoes tumbled with feta cheese and diced prosciutto. Underneath it all, herbed aioli added rich tang. Taking the ubiquitous chicken cutlet and pointing it toward Athens instead of Milan is a welcome change.

Over-the-top macaroni and cheese is a perennial pursuit of hip fine restaurants, and Zambistro’s entry ($9/$20) is worth meeting. Smoked Gouda, mini-shell pasta and truffled breadcrumbs combine for an intoxicating hot tub of aroma and texture, topped off with parsley and snowflakes of Romano cheese.

Zambistro in Medina truffled mac and cheese

The smoked Gouda and truffle mac are mini shells with Gouda cheese, white and black truffle topped with toasted breadcrumbs and Romano cheese. 

The menu offered one vegetarian entrée listed as vegan-capable: potato gnocchi ($25), this time with butternut squash, kale and golden raisins in a cranberry butter sauce.

Desserts included a compelling espresso crème brûlée ($9), chock full of coffee flavor infused into properly velvety custard.

Zambistro in Medina peach crepes melba

The peach crêpes melba is two housemade crêpes, warm peach compote, raspberry purée and vanilla ice cream. 

Peach crêpes ($8) were pure Orleans County soul food. Two crêpe pancakes folded in quarters, a scoop of ice cream, and a vibrant peach compote reminded me that we were in orchard country. The intoxicating aroma of peaches stayed with me for a while.

Service was solidly professional, with no hitch in moving my party to a larger table when it became clear how much food was coming.

In this part of Orleans County, there’s quite a few good places to eat everyday meals. But it’s Zambistro you want if you’re in search of fine Medining.

RESTAURANT REVIEW

Zambistro

Location: 408 Main St., Medina (zambistro.com, 585-798-2433).

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Prices: Appetizers, $9-$15; entrées, $16-$36.

Atmosphere: low-key classy.

Parking: lot

Wheelchair accessible: yes

Gluten-free options: many choices.

Send restaurant tips to agalarneau@buffnews.com and follow @BuffaloFood on Instagram and Twitter.

The Buffalo News: Food & Drink

* I understand and agree that registration on or use of this site constitutes agreement to its user agreement and privacy policy.

Related to this story

Most Popular

Get up-to-the-minute news sent straight to your device.

Topics

News Alerts

Breaking News