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Andrew Z. Galarneau

Andrew Galarneau is food editor for The Buffalo News.


Food and Drink

Owners of a Medina Mexican restaurant are expecting to offer Oaxacan specialties along with more familiar fare when they take over the former Trattoria Aroma on North French Road in Amherst. Leonel Rosario started his cooking career in a taco trailer next to the Monte Alban Mexican grocery in Medina. Eight years ago, he opened Mariachi de Oro nearby. If all goes as p…

Gusto

Before it was wiped out for a highway ramp, there was a restaurant called Desiderio’s on William Street in Cheektowaga. From 1968 to 1989, Michael Desiderio helped supply the neighborhood with chicken Parmesan, spaghetti and meatballs, and other Italian American standards. Another specialty, it would become clear, was Italian American restaurant owners. One of Michael’s…

Food and Drink

The roast beef at Schwabl's is justly famous. Its carved-to-order splendor is based on its unchanging simplicity. It's the sort of dish you might get time and again, until you don't even bother to look at the menu. If you would seek variety, though, allow me to nominate the unsung hero of the Schwabl's menu: the hot ham plate ($18.59). There are a few places in to…

Gusto

The owners behind Grange Community Kitchen are working on opening a new restaurant in the heart of Ellicottville. Brad Rowell and Caryn Dujanovich-Rowell will work with longtime friend and Grange sous chef Anthony Petrilli to open a place at 23 Washington St. The space has been undergoing extensive renovations, and will be designed by Dujanovich-Rowell, who also desi…

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A young member of one of the area’s well-known restaurant families is opening his first place in North Boston. Jonathan Jacobbi will be the owner of BOCO Kitchen, at 7375 Boston State Road, next to Tops supermarket. His grandfather opened Casa-Di-Pizza on Elmwood Avenue, which was taken over by father, Joseph Jacobbi. An uncle runs JJ’s Casa-Di-Pizza, currently opera…

Gusto

The question started with SZND. The restaurant Andrew Gill and his mother, Cheryl Ann, opened off Hertel Avenue last month was originally going to be called Taste. But the dishes they planned to offer were creative, and they wanted a name that was distinctive. They chose SZND, pronounced “seasoned.” The vowel-ectomy carried through its motto: “EVRY THNGS BTR SZND.” …

Gusto

A restaurant to be called Stone City Saloon is underway in the former Vera Pizzeria space on Lexington Avenue. Owner Kevin Kirby said the name for his place draws inspiration from the 1970’s funk band – the Stone City Band featured Rick James for a time – not an Old West motif. “I like the name saloon because of the reference to public gathering halls in the late 180…

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“Upgraded tavern menu” is the great white whale of restaurant concepts. It’s on the lips of every other operator, but the true beast is rarely glimpsed. It’s an obsessive subject because giving customers noticeably better versions of dishes they already want sounds like a high-percentage shot at restaurant success. It’s hard to find because it’s difficult to offer fa…

Gusto

Anyone who has stepped inside this Transit Road restaurant to witness the marinated chickens spinning their way to glory on the rotisserie knows what the house specialty is. If they have been fortunate enough to dip that chicken in the white garlic and spicy green sauces, they know why the Almaza Grill chicken is a quantum leap past supermarket bargain birds. Instead…

Food and Drink

Raphael’s is an Italian American restaurant at heart, so lasagna and meatballs are expected. But when customers walk into its new Hamburg location, they can’t miss the fact that beef can also be “what’s for dinner.” Displayed in a glass-fronted case in the dining room are several styles of steaks, which customers can choose for their supper. They’re dry aged grass-fed b…

Columns

After checking seismograph data, I have determined that the tremor Buffalo experienced Tuesday morning was not an earthquake. Which confirms my suspicion that the earth moving was instead a collective shudder of delight, as Buffalonians learned that Swiss Chalet would soon be even closer. When the announced Fort Erie, Ont., location opens this spring, their beloved r…

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Celebrated Elma nightspot Blue Lantern Lounge has officially been put up for sale. Listed at $699,750, the restaurant at 6120 Seneca St. is being offered as a turnkey operation. The deal includes the thoroughly remodeled circa-1870 building on about an acre of land, its furniture and equipment, recipes, customer mailing list, and everything an operator need to run a …

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Buffalo is known for three things: snow, sports teams that are 0-for-eternity championship-wise, and chicken wings. Could Buffalo pizza make it four? The Wall Street Journal recently published a front-page article on the spreading popularity of cup-and-char pepperoni, a sign that another one of Buffalo’s culinary specialties has started to get the attention it deserves.…

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If you’re headed down to the Small Boat Harbor on Buffalo’s waterfront this summer, you won’t recognize Charlie’s Boat Yard. The restaurant next to the docks at 1111 Fuhrmann Blvd. has nearly doubled in size, as part of a $1.3 million expansion. The new Charlie’s Boat Yard is a two-story restaurant that can hold about 200 diners, said John Skipper, an owner. That inc…

Food and Drink

In the works for five years, Hofbrauhaus Buffalo has an official opening date. "It is with a confidence tempered by the patience and prudence learned over the last year," a post on the restaurant's website said, "that we officially announce: Hofbrauhaus Buffalo will be opening in August 2019." In December, operating partner Kevin Townsell was still looking for a few …