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Andrew Z. Galarneau

Andrew Galarneau is food editor for The Buffalo News.


Gusto

Inside American restaurants, the most dangerous work pays the least. Servers get to keep their share of tips, without which they would make less than minimum wage. That usually brings them out ahead of kitchen workers, often by a sizable margin. At Tappo, the Italian-American restaurant on Buffalo's Ellicott Street, management is trying something new: asking customer…

Food and Drink

Buffalo restaurants, bars and cooks are banding together to celebrate Anthony Bourdain by throwing him a birthday party. On June 24, the second edition of A Cooks Tour Buffalo will pay homage to Bourdain, the culinary star who died of suicide last year. Bourdain’s birthday was June 25. Zamir Gotta, Bourdain’s sidekick on episodes of “No Reservations,” will be on hand…

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The beef noodle soup and lemongrass beef rolls at Pho Golden are excellent representatives of classic Vietnamese dishes, but it's the banh xeo that's just irreplaceable. Served at Pho Golden (3004 Pine Ave., Niagara Falls), it's a thick pancake made of coconut milk batter, golden and earthy with turmeric. Where American flapjacks might have blueberries or chocolate chip…

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On the first truly pleasant spring day of 2019, I was at the Little Club on Hertel Avenue, trying to become a better restaurant critic. One recurring reader complaint is that I don’t offer much wine insight. It’s a fair cop, as the Brits say. Which was why I was across the street from Ristorante Lombardo, in the family’s new wine-bar-slash-graduate-seminar. General Mana…

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Ambitious restaurant owners have long focused on increasing their business’ popularity by improving what’s on their plates. Lately, an increasing number is looking at another issue: the plates themselves. The takeout ones, at least. Years ago, the doggie bag became a plastic clamshell, and restaurants expanded their to-go offerings. Millions of plastic containers – a…

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The Amherst location of Chef’s will launch a new model for the venerable Buffalo Italian American restaurant – and award one customer Chef’s for life. At 5483 Sheridan Drive, Chef’s On the Go will have counter service, no servers and a pickup window. “Almost like an Italian Chick-fil-A, you can sit down to eat or take it to go,” said Lou Billittier Jr., who owns and ope…

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It wasn’t until I tried to explain the appeal of Frank Gourmet Hot Dogs to a retirement-age friend that I realized what the little Kenmore restaurant is up against. I had just finished extolling the virtues of a delightful handful of adventure called the Violet Beauregarde, which tops a custom-made frank with spicy blueberry barbecue sauce and frizzled shoestring onion …

Food and Drink

Finally, customers at Jay’s Artisan Pizzeria can get a square meal every night. Pizza fanatics have been singing the praises of Jay Langfelder’s pies since he was baking in the back of a truck. His Neapolitan-style pies, with light, airy crusts leopard-spotted with judicious scorch marks, have won him an audience. Since 2017, he’s been throwing dough in the relativel…

Food and Drink

Everyone likes a chance to start over. In spring, when new fresh vegetables finally pop from the earth, area chefs get itchy menu writing fingers. They want to properly exploit the first fruits of the soil in ways that echo their creative style. Here’s what spring means to them. Roost 1502 Niagara St., Buffalo Martin Danilowicz: "Spring is the beginning and an end,…

Food and Drink

The Barrel + Brine fermented foods restaurant and store on Chandler Street has set its opening for June 12. Lindsey and RJ Marvin will be offering food and drinks, many made with pickles, vinegars, kombuchas or other Barrel + Brine products. Its new address is 155 Chandler St., where seekers will find an alley that leads to a courtyard they should cross. On the other…

Food and Drink

Owners of a Medina Mexican restaurant are expecting to offer Oaxacan specialties along with more familiar fare when they take over the former Trattoria Aroma on North French Road in Amherst. Leonel Rosario started his cooking career in a taco trailer next to the Monte Alban Mexican grocery in Medina. Eight years ago, he opened Mariachi de Oro nearby. If all goes as p…

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Before it was wiped out for a highway ramp, there was a restaurant called Desiderio’s on William Street in Cheektowaga. From 1968 to 1989, Michael Desiderio helped supply the neighborhood with chicken Parmesan, spaghetti and meatballs, and other Italian American standards. Another specialty, it would become clear, was Italian American restaurant owners. One of Michael’s…

Food and Drink

The roast beef at Schwabl's is justly famous. Its carved-to-order splendor is based on its unchanging simplicity. It's the sort of dish you might get time and again, until you don't even bother to look at the menu. If you would seek variety, though, allow me to nominate the unsung hero of the Schwabl's menu: the hot ham plate ($18.59). There are a few places in to…

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The owners behind Grange Community Kitchen are working on opening a new restaurant in the heart of Ellicottville. Brad Rowell and Caryn Dujanovich-Rowell will work with longtime friend and Grange sous chef Anthony Petrilli to open a place at 23 Washington St. The space has been undergoing extensive renovations, and will be designed by Dujanovich-Rowell, who also desi…

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A young member of one of the area’s well-known restaurant families is opening his first place in North Boston. Jonathan Jacobbi will be the owner of BOCO Kitchen, at 7375 Boston State Road, next to Tops supermarket. His grandfather opened Casa-Di-Pizza on Elmwood Avenue, which was taken over by father, Joseph Jacobbi. An uncle runs JJ’s Casa-Di-Pizza, currently opera…