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Andrew Z. Galarneau

Andrew Galarneau is food editor for The Buffalo News.


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A house salad is a window into a restaurant’s soul. The work that goes into the house salad, the throw-in with entrees, provides a clue to how much that house cares about the little things. If you’re served a bowl of ice-cold iceberg shards with a lonely cucumber slice and a wedge of mealy Florida tomato, you can usually expect a similarly minimalist effort applied to t…

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When guests compliment your sauce by saying you should sell it, they have no idea how much work they’re asking you to do. Bisharo Ali does. The mother of nine brought her fenugreek-fueled dream for a sauce business all the way from Somalia. It took the Cornell Food Venture Center, in Geneva, N.Y., to help it come true. In a Broadway Market kitchen, Ali makes sauce…

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May Jen, the area’s longest-serving Chinese restaurant, will reopen after the completion of post-fire renovations. The restaurant, at 47 Kenmore Ave., has been closed since a January blaze. “We are in the process of redesigning and getting all the permits to get us back going again,” said owner Susan Leong. “But it’s a very slow process, so we don’t expect to reopen …

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The most notorious dish offered at Stack Burger in Lackawanna is a punch in the mouth delivered in burger form. The Demon Burger is blackened with an infernal spice mixture, powered by cayenne, black pepper and chile powders, welded into the beef’s surface as it sizzles on the griddle. That it looks like gunpowder is merely a coincidence. Jalapeno and banana peppers …

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A couple from Kazakhstan is taking their crêpes operation from a food truck to an Allen Street store. Irina Dyuzheva and her husband Igor Dyuzhev started selling crêpes from their Totally Edible truck in September 2017. Now they’ve taken over the food counter inside Holley Farms Market, 233 Allen St. To start, they’re offering the sweet and savory stuffed crêpe choic…

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Seven former Rowhouse Bakery & Restaurant employees have sued its owners over alleged violations of state and federal labor laws. Rowhouse owners forced them to clock out before finishing shifts, charged service fees for events but did not pay them to workers and violated other wage laws, the federal lawsuit claims. It was filed in U.S. District Court for the Wester…

Food and Drink

Starting Friday, Breton buckwheat crêpes, croissants and more will be offered on the Washington Street side of the Market Arcade. French pastry chef Camille Le Caer is opening his second Maison Le Caer location in the historic building, an ornate, three-story space that runs from 617 Main St. through to Washington Street. The cafe has entrances from the street and the b…

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Indian food has a reputation for being painfully hot, which it came by honestly, since it includes dishes so fraught with chiles they earn me a stern rebuke from my digestive system. Yet it would be wrong to lump the culinary inventions of a billion cooks under the flamethrower tag, since its diverse cuisines include many dishes that have oodles of flavor, but no discernib…

Food and Drink

When Rick Thomas decided to get into the pizza business, he went back to his roots. All the way back to Naples, where his grandfather Felice DiPalma was a master of Neapolitan-style pizza, a “maestro pizzaiolo.” The resulting restaurant, Forno Napoli, opened Oct. 23 in Amherst, at 1280 Sweet Home Road. After training in Naples, and importing a custom-made wood-fired …

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When The Yelling Goat opened on Lancaster’s Central Avenue in 2015, it already was a pretty good restaurant. Its chicken wings imbued with warming, aromatic Ethiopian berbere spices immediately joined my pantheon of Best Non-Traditional Wings. Its operators, career restaurateurs John Rooney and Laurie Kutas, have made pushing the envelope a specialite de la maison since op…

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As food editor for The Buffalo News, it is my job to explore significant developments in the local food landscape. Whether I want to or not. So when my boss told me to get in a car and go find out why a surprisingly robust segment of the population was devouring stories about the pending arrival of Chick-fil-A, I stowed my monocle and silk cravat and got ready to eat so…

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As Chick-fil-A brings its chicken breast sandwiches to town, here's a reminder that Buffalo already does remarkable chicken sandwiches. To be sure, these are more involved – and expensive – than the fast-food versions. But you get what you pay for with these dishes. So if you’re looking for a treat, here’s some posh ways to play chicken: Buffalo chicken sandwich, from …

When Mary Joan Moore was growing up in Riverside, Thanksgiving was a day for celebrating with her extended family. They were already seven in the house on Prairie Avenue, with her parents, three siblings, her grandmother and her aunt. Thanksgiving brought more relatives, stuffing the house like a turkey. Amid all those people, Moore was alone in one way: she hated pu…

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If you’re hungry before hitting Shea’s Buffalo Theatre for “Hamilton,” don’t waste your shot. Here are some places I would suggest you consider for reasons practical and sentimental. Inform your server of your curtain time so they can make sure your experience fits into your allotted time, so you can save your evening’s drama for the stage. Looking to raise a glass t…

Food and Drink

Steven Gedra, chef-owner of The Black Sheep, makes his television debut later this month on "Beat Bobby Flay." The airdate is Nov. 29, he said. The Orchard Park High School Class of 1995 graduate opened the restaurant, at 367 Connecticut St., with his wife Ellen in 2014. Gedra said the Food Network show’s scouts introduced themselves via email this spring. After that…