Share this article

print logo

Andrew Z. Galarneau

Andrew Galarneau is food editor for The Buffalo News.


Food and Drink

It’s a rare thing to feel both healthy and spoiled. After my first few bites at West Rose, the new restaurant at 23 Washington St., Ellicottville, I was torn. Hummus, the chickpea dip made from beans, sesame paste, lemon and garlic, has a protein-packed nutritional profile that's made it a favorite of the vegetarian set since hippie days. As the base layer of West…

Gusto

In December 2018, when faithful customers were wondering if Buffalo's oldest Chinese restaurant had succumbed to a kitchen fire, owner Susan Leong had good news: Her plans included rebuilding and reopening May Jen. One year later, Leong's plans for the restaurant at 47 Kenmore Ave. are the same – it's just the timeline that has changed. Construction began in late fall, …

Gusto

Successful restaurants send customers home feeling like they got what they paid for. What that means can be all over the map, of course. Everyday cafes offer dinner-for-two for the same number of dollars a tony upscale place might charge for three Instagrammable bites. That is as it should be, as restaurants’ missions can be radically different. At the creative, artisan…

Gusto

If you’re pointing your buggy to Chautauqua County, for the winemakers, the cheese, the comedy or even the winter market at the Chautauqua Institution, there’s no lack of places to feed and water your team. On a recent drive, checking out reader tips, I found a few places that were especially memorable, and worth passing along. This doesn’t purport to be a list of the b…

Gusto

The Greek diner scene is such a core strand of Buffalo’s dining DNA that sometimes locals are dismayed to discover that the breakfast meat choices end at ham, bacon and sausage. Not a souvlaki in sight, and when you ask for tzatziki with your eggs, they act like you’re the weird one. In 2013, News Staff Writer Samantha Christmann mapped the epic family tree of immigrant…

Gusto

If you’re an expat returning home for the holidays, you’re in for a few surprises. Many new businesses and cultural establishments have opened since you’ve been gone, lending increased variety to the Buffalo-area experience. News Food Editor Andrew Galarneau and Music Critic Jeff Miers have pulled together a few places that weren’t part of the mix at Thanksgiving 2018 t…

Food and Drink

A fine-dining restaurant run by students at Niagara Falls Culinary Institute reopened last week, providing elaborate meals at inexpensive prices to help students train for restaurant careers. Savor, 28 Old Falls St., is open for lunch and dinner, with set-menu meals that allow customers to choose courses for a set price. Other local budget-friendly dining opportuniti…

Food and Drink

If you wondered what Mike Andrzejewski has been up to since his much-loved restaurant Seabar closed, buy a ticket to Nov. 25 at Cantina Loco. At his place at 191 Allen St., Andrezejewski is presenting a one-night-only menu of refined Mexican-inspired cuisine, a special event amid its usual tacos and burritos. Chorizo flautas, filled with housemade sausage, and snappe…

Gusto

Raclettes, the French-inspired restaurant on Main Street, will be changing over to a different concept next year from the owners of Lucky Day and Ballyhoo. Sandra Wilkins opened the place at 537 Main St. in 2016, several years after she and her husband, Paul, purchased the building. Raclettes’ last day of business will be Dec. 28, she said. Paul Wilkins works in Lond…

Gusto

Jazzboline is the main restaurant for the Amherst Hospitality Campus hotel complex, located near the Main Street exit of Interstate 290. It fills the traveler-feeding role of the Howard Johnson's of yesteryear. There’s no clam strips, but the boffo décor feels throwback in a good way. Walk by copper-colored panels inset with Art Deco-ish scenes, and the handsome bar roo…

Food and Drink

Though family restaurant Golden Parachute closed its Williamsville storefront in September, its catering department is growing to include a training program for homeless single parents. For 29 years, Tony and Judy Palmisano operated Golden Parachute, a restaurant that was like an extension of their kitchen for a generation of Willamsville residents. Over the decades,…

Food and Drink

Waxlight Bar a Vin is not your average restaurant, in the same way Brian Wilson is not your average songwriter. Meaning I'm not sure it's commercially sustainable in Buffalo, but it's filled with weird beauty. Created by five young culinary professionals with their own followings, Waxlight Bar a Vin is a testbed for ideas about how to feed and water people for money. Th…

Gusto

There are people – good, well-meaning people, friends of mine – who say there’s no such thing as bad barbecue. We’re still friends because we can always settle our differences – with tacos, wings or Chinese regional specialties. Not barbecue, though. Once I began investing 12 to 16 hours babysitting pork butts as they crust up in the smoke, softening to sweetness as the…

Gusto

Like dandelions blossoming from sidewalk cracks, restaurants can sprout up in unlikely places. Legend has it that Ted’s Hot Dogs, with 10 locations locally and in Tempe, Ariz., started in a shack under the Peace Bridge. Bocce Club Pizza began in a bar more famous for amusement equipment than food, using a pizza oven discovered in the basement. So when word reached me…

Columns

Late last month, a Buffalo restaurant operation that employs 130 people made a mistake that could put the business in peril. Maybe you heard about it. What you haven't heard much about is why Lloyd Taco would do such a thing in the first place. The answer has as much to do with understanding that while immigration might seem like a classic 2019 "for or against" issue…