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Stuffed peppers Billy Ogden's-style at Falley Allen

Unless you consider chicken wings an appetizer, stuffed peppers might be the most popular made-in-Buffalo starter around.

To be sure, lots of peppers have been stuffed in lots of towns, for a long time. The Buffalo version, popularized at the former Billy Ogden's restaurant, features long chile peppers, usually Hungarian yellows, stuffed with a cheese mixture, then broiled or pan-seared to tenderness.

When it comes to premium versions, I favor the ones at Falley Allen, 204 Allen St, which earned an 8-plate review in November 2017. Any cook can say they offer "Billy Ogden's style" stuffed peppers, but Falley Allen chef Chris Daigler actually worked with their creator, Andy DiVincenzo.

These come three to an $11 plate, with essential grilled bread for mop-up. Tender but not sagging, cheese molten but not falling out - Daigler has dialed-in the experience, down to the flicker of anchovy deepening the filling's umami thrum.

You can still catch a zinger, as these chiles throw a stinger into the mix every now and again. But that's just part of what makes them so much fun.

[Falley Allen's eggs are devilishly delightful | Second anniversary Smiles at Falley Allen]


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