Prescott's Provisions, the new canalside restaurant in the City of Tonawanda, serves food that is something to behold.
Located at 40 E. Niagara St., it's open for dinner. In clement weather, its garage-door walls open to the Erie Canal aquascape a few yards away.
Inside, the room soars to ceiling fans and soaks up evening light through broad expanses of windows. Customers can also sit outside under partial shade and see people headed to Dockside and Remington Tavern across the water.
They can sip on a seasonal mule cocktail ($7) in the meantime. Seasonal in this case means watermelon is added to the ginger beer and vodka.
The menu doesn't mess around with wings and fish fries. It's aiming for food rooted in a rustic aesthetic, made beautiful.
Consider the beet dish ($10) at the top of this article. Roasted beet salads are approaching cliche in mid-level Western New York restaurants. Chef Vincent Thompson layers his on yogurt, with pops of acid from fresh grapefruit segments and more from grapefruit gel, with crushed pistachio and crunchy popped quinoa for contrast.
Baby potatoes ($8) get smoked over hay and served with malt aioli, ending up toothsome, though not crispy as advertised.
Crab salad with avocado ($14) gets transformed into something that looks like Darth Vader might enjoy as a light lunch – but comes out pretty darn delicious. Charred avocado, black shards of tapioca paper dyed with squid ink, dabs of lime gel and a shower of furikake, the Japanese spice-and-seed mix used as a rice topper, makes it a cavalcade of flavor and texture.
Grilled octopus ($14) arrives over more of those smoked potatoes, atop a vivid romesco sauce imbued with red chile fruitiness. It was tender and gently charred on the grill. An olive salad contributed brine and sweet shaved fennel more crunch.
Entrees include aged duck with apricot ($29), the meat offering well-rendered skin and rosy interior. The fruit was presented as a sauce, but also as a surprise, duck leg sausage having replaced the pit of a whole fruit. I sliced it open to find that duck sausage and apricot went well together, in this instance. Crispy fried kale, turnips and farro deepened its reach.
Salmon ($25) was custard-tender and crispy-skinned, its richness braced with pickled cucumber.
It's been in business for only two weeks, but given its food and location, I would suggest making a reservation if you want to eat there.
INFO: Prescott's Provisions, 40 E. Niagara St., Tonawanda. Hours: 5-10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday, Saturday. Closed Sunday and Monday. Phone: 525-1260.
*Related: Read about the restaurant's roots in Galarneau's news article from early June.
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