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Starters: Beef on weck, Millard Fillmore toast at Eckl's@Larkin

Eckl's@Larkin is an audacious attempt at building a steakhouse into a sprawling former industrial space while infusing it with the spirit of a historic family restaurant.

The result is a restaurant with wide-open spaces and plush upscale decor where you can enjoy a credible beef on weck, but also take a deep dive into the steakhouse canon.

Chairman's Reserve House Prime Beef runs from the 4-ounce file ($25) to a 12-ounce veal chop ($58). Premium wagyu beef goes from an 8-ounce strip ($54) to a 16-ounce version ($79). Sides are reasonably priced, from steamed vegetables ($4) to risotto gratin ($7), including Eckl's German potato salad ($5).

One may add a lobster tail for $26.

Elm-tree-pattern room divider at Eckl's@Larkin. (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

The beef on weck ($14) is a dollar more than the Orchard Park original, for a version that seemed to have far more salt but the same amount of beef, on my visit at least.

Sliced beef on weck at Eckl's@Larkin. (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

An appetizer of griddled cherry bread was laden with brie, chewy pork belly slices, a bit of salad and an egg, for Millard Fillmore toast ($15).

Millard Fillmore toast at Eckl's@Larkin. (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

For a steakhouse, Eckl's@Larkin goes out of its way to court vegetarians. Its efforts go beyond salads like the kale & grain ($10), made of roughed kale, Cajun-spiced pecans, and freekeh, which is roasted green wheat.

View from bar at Eckl's@Larkin. (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Butternut lasagna ($15) fills pasta sheets with squash and spinach, topped with spiced beurre blanc and more pecans. There's an all-vegetable Beyond Burger ($18), with vegan cheese, and also Beyond Bolognese ($22), where vegan burger gets the slow-simmered treatment before being ladled over ricotta gnocchi.

Chicken coq a vin ($24) was half a locally raised bird simmered in wine, pork belly lardons and mushrooms.

Chicken coq au vin at Eckl's@Larkin. (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

The big hitter was the steak, in this case a 20-ounce bone-in ribeye ($42) that turned out not to have a bone after all. It was seared a touch, medium-rare, as ordered, and topped with a tangle of fried root vegetable threads.

At Eckl's@Larkin, beef is king.

Twenty-ounce ribeye steak at Eckl's@Larkin. (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

INFO: Eckl's@Larkin, 703 Seneca St. in Larkin Center of Commerce. Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Friday, 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday. Closed Sunday.

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