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Rowhouse, Buffalo's most ambitious restaurant, opens

Buffalo's most ambitious restaurant of the year opens at 7 a.m. Oct. 12 in the sprawling former Lord Chumley complex along Delaware Avenue.

If you've never been inside 483 Delaware Ave., you're in for a treat with Rowhouse Bakery & Restaurant. The soaring three-story space merges three rowhouses into one commercial enterprise, presenting Buffalonians with an unprecedentedly broad array of offerings.

Bakery will run from fine croissants and other laminated pastries to truly artisanal bread wrought from natural starts and long ferments. Head Baker Walter Grohs III will command an entire subterranean bakery.

A wood-fired oven on the first floor, equipped with a chef's counter, will turn out pizzas, and more. In fact, some 90 percent of the dishes on the dining room menu will feel its smoky heat.

A second-story nook is one of the places eaters can alight inside Rowhouse Bakery & Restaurant. (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

A coffee counter will hit you will hit you with caffeine weaponized into usual and unusual forms. A juicery on site with serve your fresh fruit and vegetable elixir needs. It'll help stock a grab-and-go market section for people on the run.

Out of sight are the freezers stocked with local fruit, waiting to be fed into February smoothies as well as the slate of custom cocktails proffered in the first-floor cocktail bar during dinner hours.

Taking inspiration from establishments in other cities, such as San Francisco's Tartine and Eataly, and East Aurora's Elm Street Bakery, Rowhouse wants to redefine the full service restaurant.

Every edible need from a coffee and danish to fine dinner service drawn from the best of local produce and meats served with the adultest of beverages are contemplated behind Rowhouse's facade.

Second story dining facing Delaware Avenue at Rowhouse Bakery & Restaurant. (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Expect small dishes from Executive Chef Nick Schabert like beef short rib and barley soup ($5), littleneck clams with housemade bacon, and pork broth and toast ($12).

Vegetarians have lots to choose from, including a fennel gratin ($6) and a warm quinoa and wood-grilled mushroom salad ($6), and entrees like grilled cauliflower with garlic bean puree, pine-nut gremolata, toasted bread and sautéed greens chimichurri ($18).

A first floor bar wasn't finished Oct. 10 at Rowhouse Bakery & Restaurant. (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Carnivores can choose a pork chop, with white bean and bacon ragout, charred carrots ($26) and a roasted half chicken with brussels sprouts and duck confit, cauliflower cream, and potatoes ($24).

Behind it all are Sean Tuohey and Myriah Jaworski, husband and wife, who have been working on the project for several years. Behind them is Myriah's father, Mark R. Jaworski, who in conversation is Rowhouse's most passionate evangelist.

A bakery counter and coffee center was bare on Oct. 10 at Rowhouse Bakery & Restaurant. (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Rowhouse is designed to properly exploit Western New York's agricultural riches, Tuohey said. During an Oct. 10 visit, exhibit one was a city ham that had been wrought from a locally raised hog. It was cured, smoked and then brought to a crispy-edged fat-dripping finish in the wood oven.

Hours: 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday, 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday, and 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday. Closed Monday. Phone: 500-2253.

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