I stopped by The Grange Community Kitchen in Hamburg for lunch last week. My full review won't be coming until after I return for dinner, but in the meantime I met several dishes I wanted to mention.
The restaurant, at 22 Main St., opened in July. It serves breakfast, with housemade pastries like cinnamon buns ($4.50) and palmiers ($3), heart-shaped pastries that chef-owner Brad Rowell called his favorite. On offer are breakfast sandwiches like an egg-and-sausage biscuit ($6) and egg-and-cheese croissant ($6) on housemade bread.
Lunch is served from 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Customers order from the register and find a seat, and servers show up with their food.
The roasted garlic hummus and falafel ($9) made an excellent vegetarian lunch. The marinated beans and cool dilled yogurt made for a plate of engaging dipping, plus it features the tender, aromatic satisfaction of bread baked to order.
The chicken ginger soup ($7) was a hearty but soothing way to ward off the chill. The vegetable contingent was joined by fresh herbs and slices of ginger root that crunched like healthy medicine, and farro to make it even more substantial. It came with housemade crackers.
The delicata squash pizza ($16), with housemade ricotta, onion, garlic and honey and Flat 12 mushrooms was crispy-edged. The thinly sliced squash sweetened and the mushrooms turned into chewy baconlike strips in the oven's intense heat.
The pastrami on rye ($12) made me one happy carnivore. That's beef brisket brined, crusted in coriander and black pepper, and smoked. Fans of N.Y.-style deli might be hung up on shaved meat, but I'll take this: salt, smoke and fat in a slab of tender, crusty beef with a burger-like heft borne between slices of fresh seeded rye. Mustard and pickled tomatoes to cut the fat, all of it housemade, rounded off the plate.
I'll be back for dinner.
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