Following a day of non-stop excitement (cleaning out the garage), we found ourselves in need of a stick-to-your-ribs dinner. We grabbed Sig O’s dad Papa Tom (aka Bachelor for the Night) and headed to the Edge of Town which sits on the Cheektowaga/Buffalo line.
EOT reminds us of (and probably was) a neighborhood gin mill in its heyday. Very much in the mode of one of our favorites, Wiechec’s on Clinton Street. The interior appears fairly untouched by time, but in a good way. And while we cannot be sure, the place is wonderfully toasty, as if heated by radiator.
Scanning the extensive menu, one is hard pressed to find anything over $10. Entrees include the soup and salad bar. You can get it alone for $5.95; added to a sandwich it’s a buck. Menu entrees include old school favorites like chopped sirloin ($7.95) and Chicken in a Basket ($7.95). A single guy next to us had cheese ravioli with meatballs ($6.95).
The most unbelievable deals are “all you can eat” entrees (no take out or doggie bags). Served on different days of the week, choices include the likes of chicken (dark meat) $7.95, roast beef $8.95 and liver and onions $7.95. They come with potato and vegetable, plus the soup and salad bar.
There are lots of sandwiches and salads including grilled chicken salad ($7.95) and taco salad ($6.95). Sandwiches start at grilled cheese ($4.95) and end with steak ($8.95). Between are BLT ($5.95), ham ($5.95), fish ($7.95) and turkey Reuben ($6.95). All come with fries.
As sure as the sun rises, father and son went a haddock fish fry ($9.95) and fried bologna ($5.95). In an election year, my debate was between the breaded pork chops or roast pork specials ($8.95). I settled on roast pork, but nearby chop plates looked good.
We started with the soup and salad bar. Folks looking for micro greens and heirloom tomatoes are out of luck. The salad is a basic iceberg mix, with toppings like carrots, garbanzo beans and tomatoes with several dressings.
Standard fish fry sides — coleslaw, macaroni and potato salads, plus a basket of rye bread and butter — are here, too. Nothing fancy, but solid. The soup was the big winner — golumbki — a rich tomato base with ground beef and cabbage that tasted exactly as its namesake.
SigO loved his fried bologna. (Was it Wardynski? A company calendar hangs in the bar.) Thin cut, it was piled thick with onions and mozzarella on a super soft roll — a winner.
Papa Tom’s large plank of breaded haddock (battered or broiled also available) was hot and fresh with two big hunks of lemon on the side. Both fellas got nice hot fries. A side of macaroni salad from the salad bar was on the sweeter side, but tasted homemade.
Thin-sliced, tender roast pork came piled on top of traditional bread stuffing with just enough gravy to keep things moist. Two potato pancakes were intriguing. Made with mashed and fresh grated potatoes? I couldn’t tell. Thicker but darn good. Traditional corn and applesauce rounded out my dinner plate.
With two Coors Lights and an iced tea our bill came to $35.18. We left well fed and with a frequent dining discount cards from our super friendly waitress Jenny. A winning combination in the Cheap Eats world.
Edge of Town
2310 Genesee St., Cheektowaga (893-4476)
Hours: Tuesday through Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Fridays until 10 p.m. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Scene: Neighborhood tavern with lots of regulars and good food.
More: Credit cards accepted. ATM on site.
Wheelchair-accessible: Two steps. No ramp.