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Mister Dee's lives up to promise of affordable home cooking

Mister Dee’s is one of those places everyone knows about despite its somewhat desolate location. It’s on the corner of Beach Road and Maryvale Drive where the road comes to an abrupt end at the New York State Thruway.

In business almost 30 years, the restaurant is proof that “when the food is good, people find it.”

Does Mister Dee’s test culinary boundaries? No. But it delivers on its promise of “home cooking at affordable prices.”

We liked that, unlike most restaurants in this category, MD’s doesn’t overwhelm diners with hundreds of pages of choices. Menu items have been whittled down with the addition of daily specials.

A fish fry at Mister Dee's in Cheektowaga. (Mark Mulville/Buffalo News)

A fish fry at Mister Dee's in Cheektowaga. (Mark Mulville/Buffalo News)

Entrée salads number six, with basics like Julienne ($8.95), chicken Caesar ($9.25), and antipasto ($8.95). All come with bread and butter.

Only two burgers are listed with fries – mushroom Swiss ($9.25) or cheddar bacon ($9.75). Sandwiches start at a simple BLT ($5.95) and range to a house specialty open-faced steak ($10.95). Beef on weck ($8.25) is also listed as a house specialty, served medium rare, medium or well.

Dinners are what works. Center-cut pork chops (broiled, blackened or breaded) are $11.95, or $8.95 for a single chop. A fish fry is $11.95 or $8.95 small. Kentucky chicken breast is $9.95. You get the picture. Dinners come with salad or soup, vegetable, potato, bread and butter.

Server Judy Rohloff serves her mom and customer Pat Rohloff at Mister Dee's in Cheektowaga. (Mark Mulville/Buffalo News)

Server Judy Rohloff serves her mom and customer Pat Rohloff at Mister Dee's in Cheektowaga. (Mark Mulville/Buffalo News)

We started with a new menu addition of hot banana pepper dip ($7.95). Served with multicolored tortillas and toasted bread, the dip was OK but could have been better. It was pretty thick (we think it was cream cheese). It needed more heat from hot peppers and a little saltiness from cheese, too. Not bad, but a little blah.

The Unstuffed Pepper Soup of the day, however, was outstanding. It came as part of the Thursday roast turkey dinner ($11.95) special. (It was a toss-up between it and the bean with bacon.)

The tomato broth was slightly sweet and loaded with ground beef, rice and green peppers. A bowl ($4.75) could make a meal.

Sig O’s eyes lit up when he learned he could have mashed potatoes instead of fries with his Italian sausage sub ($6.95). The sub was a healthy 8-inch size, perfectly toasted with two split, grilled sausages, lettuce, tomato, mayo and lots of melted cheese (mozzarella or provolone?) for gooeyness when pulled apart. The mashed potatoes were really good, too, with that dark beefy gravy. He noted, “It makes me want a roast beef sandwich.”

Mister Dee's in Cheektowaga. (Mark Mulville/Buffalo News)

Mister Dee's in Cheektowaga. (Mark Mulville/Buffalo News)

The roast turkey dinner was really tasty. Multiple slices of tender turkey were layered on top of a basic (but good) stuffing. Not salty at all. Mashed potatoes had a lighter gravy. The dinner came with a cup of cranberry sauce and really good carrots to give it a Thanksgiving feel. (We bet the sweet mashed potatoes would have been a good choice, too.)

Also on Thursday’s specials in the Cheap Realm were a hot turkey sandwich with soup or salad ($9.95), Chicken Mary (chicken with tomato sauce on linguine) for $10.95, Tilapia Florentine ($9.95) and an Oriental chicken salad ($9.95).

Under desserts, we were dying to try Stacy’s Cake (Cherry Garcia). Pies (lemon meringue, key lime, apple) are dinner classics that caught our eye, too, but we were simply too full.

With two drafts, our check came to a whopping $36.27. Our bellies were full, we had excellent service and it was easy on the wallet – the hallmarks of a great Cheap Eats.

CHEAP EATS

Mister Dee’s Restaurant & Bar

Where: 450 Beach Road, Cheektowaga

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday; and 1 to 8 p.m. Sunday.

Good beer: Good Leinenkugel Summer Shandy drafts ($3.25) with dinner. Other nice choices available, like Resurgence Orange Saison.

Specials: Regular daily dinner specials. Senior discount 3 to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday and noon to 4 p.m. Sunday.

Fun: Find the five tiny buffaloes on the paper placemat. Large fish tank in dining room.

Wheelchair accessible: Yes

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