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One Beer: Hamburg OMS at Mammoser's

Mammoser’s, a Village of Hamburg favorite, is so cozy and accommodating that it’s the type of place you wouldn’t mind being barricaded inside by lake-effect snow. Its rustic interiors and mounted game busts give off the vibe of a neighborhood shotgun shack, but its narrow, intimate barroom encourages patrons to get close — and actually have friendly conversations. A novel concept, but one that can seamlessly operate under the iPod-served hum of Wilco and the Sheepdogs; and one that complements the tavern’s vast array of regular and seasonal craft selections on tap.

The beer: Hamburg OMS

The breakdown: If you’re looking for a locale’s freshest beer, it’s wise to chose one that’s brewed down the street. At Mammoser’s, that includes selections from nearby Hamburg Brewery, located a short drive away on Boston State Road. And with the temperatures skewing downward, drinkers would be wise to wrap themselves in the toasted sweetness of Hamburg’s signature oatmeal stout. Dark, delicious and doable at 5.3 percent ABV, it provides adequate heft for those eager for a heavier body and head, yet pleasing hints of coffee and chocolate for those who would rather swap their hot cocoa for a craft draft.

Face-wash station not included: If you liberally spread any type of sauce all over your face and fingers, you’d likely consider a trip to your bathroom for a thorough rinse or a full shower. So why is it that, when saturating your skin with chicken wing sauce, diners think napkins or wet wipes will get the job done? And that’s a shame at Mammy’s, where their grilled and slopnoxious hot barbecue wings require full immersion and, sometimes, after-meal attention from a fire hose.

Come as you are: Do not bust out your Sunday best for a trip to this Southtowns tavern. Don’t iron your shirt, press your slacks or have even the slightest hope that you’ll scoop a date while straddling one of the locale’s stools. Mammoser’s is a place to feel free, relaxed and relieved over a pint and plate of pickle fingers.

Translation: Let yourself go, if only for an evening.

When to go: Open seven days a week during usual bar hours. Stop in for a beer on your next visit to the Village of Hamburg; on your way home from nearby Hamburg Brewery; or as part of your envious who-has-the-best-wings-in-Western New York research.

Mammoser’s Tavern and Restaurant
16 South Buffalo St., Hamburg (648-1390).
Founded in: 1947
Beers on tap: 18
Great place for: Bills games, hot BBQ wings and general Southtowns revelry.
Visit when: you are in the heart of the Village of Hamburg.
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 12:30 a.m. Friday and Saturday; and noon to 7 p.m. Sunday.

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