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Spar’s lunchtime sub is simple cold-cut bliss

Joe Kennedy started working at Spar’s European Sausage Shop as a sausage-making apprentice, learning his craft from Eric Spar, the shop’s owner. Kennedy and his wife, Beth, took over in 2005.

Their shop offers a United Nations of fresh and smoked sausages: German, Polish, Italian, Hungarian, Ukrainian and Greek are just some of the possibilities. Bacon and smoked pork chops are in the case, too, and hot dogs made from T-Meadow hogs from Lockport.

You can get lunch at the Amherst Street shop, too, and it’s not a sausage. Kennedy’s skills extend to cold cuts, and the case usually holds more than a half-dozen kinds made in-house, along with a score of imported types. He smokes his own turkey breast and roasts his own roast beef. There’s also a honey ham made from those T-Meadow hogs.

Then there’s leberkase, which is a loaf-shaped bologna, except more interesting, with pepper and olive versions. I was drawn to tyroler, which is similar, except it includes little chunks of ham. A garlic tyroler includes mustard seeds.

Recognizing that browsing the Spar’s case may induce hunger pangs, the sausage shop started selling sandwiches. Pick one of a dozen cold cuts and one of the countermen will slice off a big pile, a third of a pound or a half, depending on the variety, and ask you which kind of cheese you’d like with it.

They’ll slather a fresh Luigi’s roll with whole grain mustard, if you like, pile everything in there, cut it, wrap it, and hand it over.

Meat. Cheese. Bread. There is no lettuce, tomato or any vegetable dilutants on hand whatsoever, so don’t ask.

At $6.50 to $8.25 a go, it’s simple cold-cut satisfaction.

Info: Spar’s European Sausage Shop, 405 Amherst St. (876-6607).

email: agalarneau@buffnews.com

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