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Wild Bill Hickory makes Clarence BBQ country

There are dishes that I would hesitate to buy from a trailer parked off the side of a country road. Barbecued brisket, smoked low and slow, is not one of them.

Apparently I'm not alone, because Bill Richer is still selling barbecue on County Road in Clarence Center, two years after he started. He's got a smoker, the trailer and some picnic tables set up at 9840 County Road, to be precise. The setup is called Wild Bill Hickory BBQ.

He sells it Tuesday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., or until he runs out. If you're not the gambling type, give him a call at 908-5263 before you head out.

Here's Richer, a former longtime bartender at places like the Locker Room, Buffalo Tap Room and the grill at the Paddock Chevrolet Golf Dome.

Proprietor Bill Richer of Wild Bill Hickory BBQ in Clarence (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Proprietor Bill Richer of Wild Bill Hickory BBQ in Clarence (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

I liked his brisket sandwich, properly red-ringed, smokey and tender, even if I prefer my brisket sliced (picture above). His zingy barbecue sauce is served on the side, as barbecue purists would have it, as sauce is often used to cover up the sins of inept smoking. It's $8.95.

The Red Neck Nachos ($7.50), fries loaded with chopped smoked pork, cheddar, chopped onion and jalapenos, was pretty darn tasty too, even if he should've kept the fries cooking longer.

Red Neck Nachos, pulled pork, cheddar, jalapenos and chopped onion on fries, at Wild Bill Hickory BBQ in Clarence (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Red Neck Nachos, chopped pork, cheddar, jalapenos and chopped onion on fries, at Wild Bill Hickory BBQ in Clarence (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

The chopped pork sandwich is $7.50, $8.95 with a side and a soft drink, or $14.95 for a pair with a drink. That goes for the pulled chicken, too.

Twin pulled chicken (left) and pulled pork sandwiches at Wild Bill Hickory BBQ in Clarence (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Twin pulled chicken (left) and chopped pork sandwiches at Wild Bill Hickory BBQ in Clarence (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

The best way to get your smoked chopped pork fix might be the Wild Bill sandwich ($7.95), which arrives bearing jalapenos and a chipotle sauce Richer makes himself.

Wild Bill sandwich with jalapenos, chopped onion and house chipotle sauce on pulled pork at Wild Bill Hickory BBQ in Clarence (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Wild Bill sandwich with jalapenos, chopped onion and house chipotle sauce on pulled pork at Wild Bill Hickory BBQ in Clarence (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Sides include barbecued beans, potato salad, cole slaw and maybe mac and cheese.

Barbecue beans at Wild Bill Hickory BBQ in Clarence (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Barbecue beans at Wild Bill Hickory BBQ in Clarence (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Any of it can run out, because this isn't a corporate juggernaut restaurant. This is a guy who likes to make barbecue, and has the patience to wait for someone hungry to drive by.

Here's the menu:

Menu at Wild Bill Hickory BBQ in Clarence (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Menu at Wild Bill Hickory BBQ in Clarence (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

email: agalarneau@buffnews.com

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