1) Black Iron Bystro opened at 3648 South Park Ave. in Blasdell. 240-9830

(Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News file photo)

1) Black Iron Bystro: Former Vera Pizzeria sous chef Bryan Mecozzi opened his own place in May, a former print shop outfitted in eclectic style. His cuisine avoids the wings-and-weck stereotypes in favor of creative dishes like scallops with spinach and black-eyed peas (pictured in front of Mecozzi), and a beet-and-chevre sandwich.

(Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News file photo)

1) Black Iron Bystro, cont.: Mecozzi changes his menu frequently, so the tuna croquettes, duck sliders with rutabaga blue cheese gratin (pictured) and apple crisp with coffee caramel that impressed me on a recent visit might not be available. But this chefu2019s resolute originality and clear love of vegetables makes his kitchen one worth seeking out.

(Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News file photo)

2) The Black Sheep opened at 367 Connecticut St. in August. 884-1100

(Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News file photo)

2) The Black Sheep, cont.: Owners Steven (pictured) and Ellen Gedra are the chef-baker team that made shoebox-sized Bistro Europa a cult classic restaurant on Elmwood. Now in their own building, the Gedras offer nose-to-tail cuisine from heritage-breed pigs and choice seafood selections, plus sticky toffee pudding and jacked-up Americana for dessert. The new space is 50 seats, twice as large. Itu2019s Bistro Europa all grown up u2013 the silverware and plates match, the food is more carefully presented, and the service more polished.

(Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News file photo)

2) The Black Sheep, cont.: The most compelling bread basket in town comes with burro di chianti, seasoned whipped lard. The smoked-and-grilled pork chop and the u201cbeets five waysu201d shows Steven Gedrau2019s knack for both primal pleasures and plates that encourage diners to play with their food. (Pictured is the T-Meadow pork belly with polenta.)

(Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News file photo)

3) Bourbon and Butter opened in September at 391 Washington St. inside the Hotel at the Lafayette. 253-6453

(Don Nieman/Special to the News)

3) Bourbon and Butter, cont.: Chef-owner Mike Andrzejewski pulled the plug on luxe attempt Mike Au2019s and moved the dining room into the stylish barroom inside the remodeled Hotel at the Lafayette. The menu includes upgraded versions of Buffalo favorites, like a u201cbeef on wecku201d loaded with velvety beef short rib (pictured), adventurous plunges like crispy pig ear salad, and Asian delights like buns loaded with Korean kalbi beef.

(Andrew Galarneau/Special to the News)

3) Bourbon and Butter, cont.: Chef Bruce Wieszala, pictured, joined the staff in September, adding creativity and the promise of charcuterie to the restaurantu2019s menu. Another signal attraction is the drinks of beverage director Tony Rials, the most accomplished craft cocktail creator in town.

(Buffalo News file photo)

4) Buffalo Proper opened in August at 333 Franklin St. 783-8699

(Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News file photo)

4) Buffalo Proper, cont.: Cocktails by Jon Karel and cuisine by Edward Forster (pictured) make this one of the most distinctive takes on fine dining in the city. Karel and his staff are from the barkeep-as-ringleader school of alcohol sales. Their drinks are potent and range from interesting re-spun classics to provocative inventions.

(Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News file photo)

4) Buffalo Proper, cont.:The gem saladu2019s dressing is fortified with house-made black garlic. Cured melon on toast and hay-smoked potatoes underneath a gorgeous, juicy roast chicken are two tasty inventions worth encountering. If you fear Forsteru2019s inventions are too esoteric, a plate of his braised pork shoulder, barley and kohlrabi sauerkraut will set you right. (Pictured is the pour-over carrot soup with carrot cake, puffed rice, spicy yuzu and licorice pudding).

(Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News file photo)

5) Dinosaur Bar-B-Que opened at 301 Franklin St. in February. 880-1667

(Harry Scull Jr./Buffalo News file photo)

5) Dinosaur Bar-B-Que, cont.: The Syracuse-based barbecue chain finally opened a store in Buffalo in February. It feels like a barbecue joint even though itu2019s housed in a cannily repurposed building that was once a film vault. Barbecue aficionados are welcome to argue if itu2019s the best slow-smoked ribs and chicken in town, or not. I thought its work indisputably made it part of the argument.

(Harry Scull Jr./Buffalo News file photo)

5) Dinosaur Bar-B-Que, cont.: What it takes exceptional marks in is consistency, which is the bugbear of barbecue. The menu spin-offs, like its chimichurri-topped chicken steak, are worth the diversion. The side dishes, so important in an overall meal, are freshly made, and the servers aim to please. Manager Robert Rush, pictured, shows off the Three Meat combo.

(Buffalo News file photo)

6) Elm Street Bakery, 72 Elm St., East Aurora, has been open since 2011, but it added dinner service in April. 652-4720

(Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News file photo)

6) Elm Street Bakery, cont.: The massive wood-fired oven at the heart of this place isnu2019t a gimmick, itu2019s the foundation for dishes both thoughtful and delicious. Opened in 2011, it started serving dinner this April. Local ingredients, presented in deceptively rustic surroundings, star in dishes that draw on international flavors. But Brad Rowellu2019s (pictured) menu is rooted in traditional culinary arts like butchering, preserving, and cheese-making.

(Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News file photo)

6) Elm Street Bakery, cont.: A chicken raised in East Aurora finds its glory in Moroccan curry spice, hummus and made-to-order flatbread (pictured). Fine bread is served with house-made cultured butter. Desserts from Executive Pastry Chef Luci Levere seal the deal by properly exploiting glorious local fruit and decadently upgrading classic sweets.

(Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News file photo)

7) Oshun opened at 5 E. Huron St. in August. 848-4500

(Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News file photo)

7) Oshun, cont.: Built as the Waldorf-Astoriau2019s coffee shop, the room is highlighted with Art Deco styling and bas-relief murals that evoke Buffalou2019s grander days. The seafood-centered menu keeps up the sense of wonder. An oyster bar offers a half-dozen or more varieties, and chef-owner Jim Guarino offers dishes that present fish, bivalves, cephalopods and crustaceans in delicious settings. Meat and potatoes eaters get their due, too. (Pictured is kitchen manager Brett Brennan holding a whole roasted rainbow trout.)

(Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News file photo)

7) Oshun, cont.: Try the fried catfish with bacon vinaigrette (pictured), calamari in pineapple tamarind glaze, or pork cutlet and golabki in smoky tomato broth. Have the argument about whether they go with seafood if you must, but donu2019t miss the Parker rolls. Somehow, save room for dessert.

(Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News file photo)

8) Pho Dollar opened at 322 W. Ferry St. in January. 748-0049

(Buffalo News file photo)

8) Pho Dollar, cont.: Menus of Vietnamese basics have been available in Buffalo for decades, but this former neighborhood bar on West Ferry Street was different. With a menu more than 100 dishes deep, it expanded the Buffalo Vietnamese lexicon significantly. (Pictured is owner William Mai presenting pacake, egg rolls and spring rolls).

(Buffalo News file photo)

8) Pho Dollar, cont.: You can get pho, the characteristic beef noodle soup, lots of places. Try a roll-your-own salad roll kit for the table with grilled pork or shrimp sausage, and ask the server to roll the first one. Or try the bo nuong xa ot, spicy glazed beef slices wrapped around onions and lemongrass; goi ga, shredded chicken salad with cabbage and mint; or thit kho to, pork braised in caramel sauce in a clay pot. (Pictured is the Bun Dac Biet, a specialty combo).

(Buffalo News file photo)

9) Sato opened at 739 Elmwood Ave. in February. 931-9146

(Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News file photo)

9) Sato, cont.: Sato has brought authentic ramen soup and the broadest Japanese menu in Western New York to Elmwood Avenue. Owners Satomi (pictured) and Joshua Smith have developed a restaurant that offers a Japanese menu far broader than the usual teriyaki clichés, featuring seasonal locally inspired dishes. Seafood goes beyond sushi, stews and soups are a strength, and Japanese home-style dishes are part of the attraction. Its sake collection, administered by certified sake sommelier Joshua Smith, is the broadest in town.

(Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News file photo)

9) Sato, cont: Try any of the ramen (pictured) flavors u2013 including the vegetarian, which is worthy, not just pandering u2013 and my favorite vegetable side dish, a deep-fried caramel-coated sweet potato called daigaku imo (see previous photo).

(Robert Kirkham/Buffalo News file photo)

10) Valle of Mexico Restaurant opened at 1585 South Park Ave. in May. 822-8880

(Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News file photo)

10) Valle of Mexico, cont.: This small restaurant, run by Hector Martinez (pictured) and his family, is a humble place. It doesnu2019t have a liquor license yet, or particularly swift service. What it does have is the best Mexican cuisine in Buffalo.

(Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News file photo)

Particularly praiseworthy are its sauces: dark, complex mole (pictured); aromatic salsa verde; smoky chipotle-based salsa rojo. Try them in a context of your choice; a plate of carnitas (braised and seared pork) is a safe bet. Its collection of meats can be enjoyed as tacos, tortas (subs), burritos or plates. Stuff like lengua (tongue) might get sold out, but the server will tell you whatu2019s good today. Itu2019s a must-try for any serious Mexican fan u2013 just not one in a hurry.

(Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News file photo)

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