Steven and Ellen Gedra started serving last Thursday at The Black Sheep, 367 Connecticut St., whose 60 seats doubles the capacity of their former place, Bistro Europa, on Elmwood.
The Gedras’ collection of locally sourced but internationally inspired soul food and kicked-up Americana brought them a cult following. Watermelon gazpacho and a fish plate featuring a variety of cured, smoked and raw preparations is just the beginning.
At The Black Sheep, the unctuous flavors of locally raised pork appear as pork confit pierogi, pork skin fritters with chow-chow (both $7), and even dessert, in the apricot-and-cherry “brioche de cochon,” made with leaf lard.
But king of the menu is the steak frites, $45, which come sprawled over house-made fries, with bordelaise sauce and truffled watercress salad. In keeping with Gedra’s penchant for local fare, it’s built on a 16-ounce beef ribeye, cut by Dispenza’s Meat Market of Ransomville.
There are also vegetables.
[Read Janice Okun's review of Bistro Europa from 2011, which should lend insight into the Gedras' culinary mission]