One of my favorite dishes at Daniels, which I reviewed in today's Buffalo News, was the foie gras appetizer, above. When I read Chef Scott Donhauser's description, complete with Chanterelle mushroom bread "French toast," maple froth, a quail egg and drunken sour cherries, I thought it sounded complicated. Maybe too complicated.
It worked together well on the plate, though. The sour fruit of the cherries balanced the husky richness of the liver, with sweet maple and bacon crumbles to finish Donhauser's play on breakfast in the penthouse suite.
The watermelon gazpacho amuse that started our meal, above, was remarkable for its interplay of sweet heat and surprises like toasted cumin seeds.
Our entrees were all fine examples of what Daniels can do. But the dish that was simple, elegant satisfaction was the butter-poached halibut with baby greens almondine and beet risotto, garnished with a crispy bread-stick-like "antenna":
The shrimp with truffled salsify snuck another dose of chile heat into fine dining togs:
A soft-shelled crab special, done up scampi style over pasta, had us wiping the plate:
My ribeye steak with truffle cream was a handsome slab of beef, cooked right:
The skin on the duck was fully rendered, turning it into a crispy savory rind on each bite:
The butter-poached lobster was perfectly cooked as well, even if the sauce could have been used more sparingly:
The "Snickers" dessert was a successful deconstructed candy treat:
Dinner at Daniels remains a Southtowns treat.