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Can't-miss dishes: vegetable tartine and more at Elm Street Bakery

The dishes I enjoyed the most at Elm Street Bakery, which I reviewed in Thursday's Buffalo News, were good-looking as well as delicious. Since Chef Brad Rowell tries to change up the dinner menu to take advantage of the best local produce and flown-in seafood, some of these might not be on the menu when you visit.

But go anyways. Even though I only ate dinner there once, I am confident that you'll get the chance to try something as good. Or better.

The vegetable tartine above, on vollkornbrot, piled fresh fava beans, foraged fiddleheads, snap peas, artichoke hearts, radishes and radish greens, all lightly dressed with lemon oil, on creamy house-made ricotta.

cured swordfish belly tartine at elm street bakery 032-003

There was another tartine when we visited a few weeks ago. Based on a slice of baguette, above, its protein was cured swordfish belly, and it was adorned with slices of radish that reminded me of fins. With capers, anchovy aioli and celery leaf, it reminded me of a tunafish sandwich, except better.

Here's a plate of Surryano ham with crackly-crusted ESB baguette.

surryano ham at elm street bakery-001

Baguette close-up, to show crust detail:

baguette at elm street bakery 014-001

Burrata and roasted baby beet salad:

burrata and roasted beet salad at elm street bakery 043-001

Here's the margherita pizza, made in the wood-fired oven like all ESB's pizzas and entrees.

margherita pizza at elm street bakery 050-001

One such entree was the swordfish with roasted fennel and farro:

swordfish with fennel and farro at elm street bakery 045-001The pork chop was gorgeous, though the fiddleheads are likely gone for the season:

pork chop with lentils and fiddleheads at elm street bakery 053-001Desserts included a perfect little lemon tart in a coconut sable crust, with an anise meringue stick:

lemon tart with meringue at elm street bakery 070-001 The place doesn't take reservations for groups smaller than six. Dinner starts at 5 p.m., which is probably the only time you'll get to see the upper dining room this way:

elm street bakery 2nd floor dining room-002



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