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Haute cuisine in the hills: Dinner worth Chautauqua drive?

If you love fine food enough to drive 90 minutes for it, you might want to call the Anthenaeum Hotel at 357-4444 and see if there are any seats left for the Sept. 10 Farm to Table Dinner.

The Anthenaeum is the Chautauqua Institution’s hotel, and the reason to go is a young chef named Ross Warhol. The 23-year-old chef has done training stages at some of the world’s best kitchens, including Spain’s El Bulli, Ubuntu in California and Chicago’s Alinea. He’s composing dishes of largely local ingredients through a haute cuisine sensibility, and winning fans in the process.

For the Sept. 10 dinner, everything will be sourced from farmers within 30 miles of the hotel, Warhol said. “I’m definitely doing a Green Heron Growers chicken dish,” he said, stuffing the breast with thigh and leg meat, like a sage stuffing. There’ll be country ham ravioli, using hams Warhol cured himself from a Freeman Homestead hog.

The six or seven course dinner, with accompanying beer and wine pairings, will go for about $115, including tax and gratuity. There were about 10 seats left Tuesday night.

If you miss the dinner, Warhol will be assisting fellow Anthenaeum chef Brett Odorisio at a Sept. 24 dinner at Green Heron Growers, a certified organic farm that grows everything from heirloom beef to shiitake mushrooms. Tickets are $85 at or 465-5704.

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