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Cheap eats

Let's get this out of the way: The place that combines golf simulators and a restaurant in the old Club Evolution on Transit Road offers this definition of "frog hair": "The closely mown grass that surrounds a putting green . . . also known as the fringe, apron or collar."

Local golfers had heard the final three terms, but never "frog hair." And for a restaurant, the name is, to be charitable, unusual.

The front desk has the athletic bustle of a rec facility, but past that, Frog Hair shows its other, more country-clubby personality. A gas fire blazes by some cozy seating, and the bar is expansive. The main room holds tables on one side and a wall of four public (in that the people at the tables can watch the players) golf simulators.

We were seated in the middle of the room, with a good view of an enormous flat-screen TV and another smaller TV. But John, the best golfer in the group, was most interested in the video screens in the simulators, which were all busy around noon on this Saturday.

The dinner menu is more expensive ($16.95 for Salmon Lasagna, $23.95 for a 12-ounce strip steak), but lunch was well within the range of a more expensive cheap eat. Beef on weck for one is $6.95; a Smoked Turkey Wrap is $8.95; burgers are $6.95 for plain and $7.95 for cheeseburgers. While we studied the menu, John watched the golfers. "Ouch!" he said as a shot hit the ceiling.

Ruth eyed the crab cakes ($8.95 for the appetizer, $9.95 for the sandwich) but settled on the Spicy Chicken Quesadilla, and rated it excellent, with white meat chicken, melted cheese, and best of all, red, yellow and and green bell peppers. The scoop of guacamole was nice and creamy, she said. John, watching the golfers, said, "Uh-oh."

Dan's Meatloaf ($7.95) served on toasted sourdough bread was two thin slices that he pronounced "very tasty, but not a lot of meatloaf." We all agreed that they should raise the price a buck and cut the slices thicker.

John said, "Nice shot!" and dug into his Cajun Chicken Sandwich ($6.95), which he praised for its moist, tender meat and blend of spices.

I scored an eagle with my lunch, Chicken on the Green ($9.95), a whole chicken breast, grilled and sliced, served on a bed of salad greens, which themselves were set on a bed of delicious lattice-cut fries. What a concept! Everyone marveled at the size of the serving, and I shared some of the chicken and thick-cut fries with Dan and John.

Even if you're not a golfer, with players in the booths, Frog Hair combines a meal and a show.

-- Anne Neville


Frog Hair

7800 Transit Road, Amherst


Review: 3 1/2 pennies (Out of 4)

"Quality food."

Frog Hair's kitchen opens at 11:30 a.m. daily. It closes at 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday; at midnight Friday and Saturday; and at 10 p.m. on Sunday. It is handicapped-accessible.

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