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A few other Pine Avenue notables that go beyond the usual suspects:

Michael's, 3011 Pine Ave. (282-4043) Family eatery by the Little Italy arch, with offerings ranging from blue-collar burgers to pastas like gnocchi with sun-dried tomato pesto or gorgonzola cream with prosciutto.

Ferraro's, 2789 Niagara St. (284-7592) Anthony Ferraro, son of noted Falls chef Dennis Ferraro, offers extremely reasonable eggplant Parmesan sandwiches, terrific marinara and other blue-collar delights in a converted service station.

Fortuna's, 827 19th St. (282-2252) Veal Parmesan, gnocchi, and tomato sauce with mushrooms that prompt some partisans to call it the best Italian restaurant in town.


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