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High-protein diet always in fashion at E.B. Green's

Capitalize the "B" in Beef when you discuss E.B. Green's. After all, it's the real reason for the restaurant's existence. Beef as in its 24-ounce Porterhouse "Signature Steak" for instance ($31). Beef as in its 20-ounce New York Strip (the most popular item, at $30). Or the 32-ounce Prime Rib House Special ($32).

The many different cuts (except the prime rib) are displayed at your table before you order. The tray seems to hold enough meat to feed the entire Western world, and it's great-looking, all right. Even Michelangelo would be humbled at the sight of all that marble.

E.B. Green's, in the Hyatt Regency Hotel, is a steakhouse in the grand tradition. The meat is the kind of stuff some people write poetry about, and the rest of the food is high quality, too.

This may not be contemporary cuisine - about the only item you might not have found on a upscale menu 25 years ago is the Charbroiled Portobello Mushroom appetizer (excellent by the way). But it's exceptionally tasty food from the highest quality ingredients, carefully prepared.

And, to many people, quintessentially American.

We ordered two first courses before we began our meal. That grilled mushroom and E.B.'s chopped salad for $7. (The salad can also be ordered as a main course for $13.) And a fine salad it is, too, with fresh lettuce, excellent sliced cheddar cheese, tomatoes and hard-cooked egg. (The Caesar Salad that comes with your entree at no extra charge is also notable.)

The Companion's New York Strip was cut thick, the way a quality steak is meant to be - at least two inches thick, I'd reckon. Ordered medium rare, it came medium rare and perfectly seasoned, too. (To us, it's really a waste to order meat like this cooked beyond medium.) A baked sweet potato was its accompaniment.

And my three-inch thick Veal Rib Chop ($33) was fine, too. It was served in a port wine reduction with garlic mashed potatoes.

Most of the entrees in E.B. Green's carry a hefty sharing fee although the Double Porterhouse (48 ounces, $59) is designed for two. As is the three-pound Lobster for $55. Not to mention the three-pound Lobster Thermidor.

So believe me when I tell you that the single entrees at E.B. Greens are more than enough for any human to eat. (Most customers leave the dining room clutching take-home packages like they came from Tiffany's.)

Nevertheless, you might want to order a side of vegetables, just because. Matchstick-sized asparagus spears ($7) for instance, come out piled upon a platter so high they look like bright green haystacks. Creamed Spinach, the steakhouse standby, is available, too An order is $5.

If you want a souffle for dessert you must order it when you order your main meal. Timing is everything with this dessert. We split a chocolate souffle for $7. And we waited for it a while, too, a bit longer than we might have wished. But when the puffy thing came, it was worth the wait despite the fact that the streaks of egg white made us realize it was put together under great stress.

I also think more attention should be paid to the accompanying sauce. (It tasted a wee bit like Hershey syrup.)

The E.B. Green wine list is varied but not terribly long on moderately priced bottles - which should come as no surprise. Worthy wines are available by the glass. One of the house reds is a Beringer Pinot Noir for $7.

And, as you should expect in a steakhouse, the martinis are expertly made though substantially priced. A classic Belevdere vodka martini goes for $9.50.

Just asking - is that the record for this area?


E.B. Green's - 3.5 stars (out of five)

WHERE: Two Fountain Plaza in the Hyatt Regency Hotel. (855-4870.) A steakhouse in the grand tradition. Luxurious space, formal service and meat, meat, meat. Bring an appetite, bring money. Credit cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa.


NEEDS WORK: Food is of excellent quality.

PRICE RANGE: Steaks from $27 include salad and potato. Prime Rib (32 ounces) $32.



HOURS: Seven days, dinner only from 5 p.m.

HEALTHY CHOICES: Several grilled fish items available. Broiled Chicken.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes. Go through hotel lobby.

PARKING: Valet parking. Also on the street or in the city ramp across the street.

KID APPEAL: Get a sitter.

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