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To the Editor:

I believe that Buffalo is blessed with some of the best ethnic restaurants. What could be better than the rice pudding at the Towne Restaurant, the eggplant spread at Ambrosia or the lentils and ditalini at Garangelos? This leads to why I am getting more and more annoyed with Janice Okun's restaurant reviews. It seems that the small, unpretentious ethnic spots can't get more than two stars, no matter how great their food is.

The review of GarAngelo's (Gusto, Jan. 23) was particularly disappointing. Ms. Okun praised the food she ate, said everything was of good quality, and then gave the restaurant only two stars. I personally believe that GarAngelo's serves some of the best Italian food (the down-home, peasant-stock variety) around. When you factor in the warm and colorful presence of Shirley (the waitress, hostess, and mother of the owner), the fantastic gorgonzola bread and the amazingly low prices, this place should be rated five stars.

Please recognize that excellence may be found in restaurants without snob appeal.

Ellen Errigo

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