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GOING GREEK AT AMBROSIA

Consistency is key when finding a good restaurant. I have been to Ambrosia, 467 Elmwood Ave., several times over the past few years and I have found the quality to be variable. The food will be incredible one time and mediocre the next.

Thankfully, some visits are never disappointing. My favorite dish at Ambrosia is the gyro, a piece of pita bread rolled around seasoned beef, onions, tomatoes and the special tziki sauce. Tziki sauce is a very garlicky yogurt sauce that brings out all the flavors of the gyro. If you prefer something less intense, ask for feta cheese instead. Ambrosia also serves a vegetarian gyro. My companion, who does not eat red meat, once ordered it and reported that it lacked the flavor of the regular gyro. Even the tziki sauce did not help the bland flavor.

Some of my companions often order scrambled eggs at Ambrosia. These tend to be overdone and dry. The eggs come with home-fried potatoes that frequently seem like they have been sitting around for a while. The spicing of the potatoes is good but the lack of freshness affects the overall enjoyment of the home fries.

One of my companions once ordered Ambrosia's pancakes. She reports that this was a mistake. They did not have a lot of flavor and were dry no matter how much maple syrup was poured on them.

There are a variety of omelets at Ambrosia. My favorite is the Western omelet. This contains ham, peppers, onions and cheese. At Ambrosia it can be served on bread as a Western sandwich.

FOOD: ***

Desserts: I have only had the rice pudding here which is thin and lemony. I prefer the thicker, more custardy kind found in other Greek restaurants in town.

DESSERT: ***

The service is somewhat slow at Ambrosia but the servers are pleasant.

SERVICE: ***

OVERALL: Ambrosia deserves: ***

Rating System:

***** Extraordinary

**** Excellent

*** Good

** Fair

* Not worth trying.

Oliver Hays is a sophomore at Williamsville South High School.

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