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WINE WATCH

Estancia Meritage 1994: moderate price. This Bordeaux-style blend from California's Alexander Valley has a high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, giving it lots of currant fruit and a long finish. John Beatty, maitre d' and sommelier at Fanny's, recommends it with the restaurant's Lamb en Croute.

Bernardus Chardonnay: premium price. A lesser-known gem from the cool Monterey peninsula of California, this wine has flavors that are intense but not sharp, with real richness and finesse. Judy Lenz, innkeeper at Asa Ransom House, picks it to go with the restaurant's pretzel and ale chicken.