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Freshly baked brioche seared in butter. Chocolate pastry cream. Silky mousse fashioned from house-ground peanut butter. Bananas Foster sauce. Bacon-studded caramel. Candied peanuts. These are the components of The Elvis—a dessert so exceptional I can’t remember anything else I ate at the meal it capped. And that is saying a lot, considering it was served to me at The Blac…

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Chef Adam Goetz is one of a small but growing group of Buffalo restaurateurs whose pursuit of the best ingredients has driven them to build relationships with local farmers. On April 24, at his restaurant called Craving (1472 Hertel Ave.), Goetz is holding a fundraising dinner for Erba Verde Farms. The star will be a veal calf. Unlike factory-farmed veal, the calf was ra…

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Three and a half years ago, I was appointed restaurant critic of The Buffalo News. Some 200 restaurant reviews later, my view of my job has expanded a smidge. My core mission is still giving readers actionable intelligence on where to spend their dining dollars. Put another way, it’s my job to find and proclaim the best in Western New York’s eating life. “The best” is a …

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Through the relationship between ambitious local chefs and nearby farmers, several Buffalo restaurants have embraced the farm-to-table movement to offer diners seasonally fresh dishes that are expertly prepared. In Andrew Galarneau's New-School Buffalo food manifesto -- an article inspired by Craving chef Adam Goetz's dinner at the James Beard House in New York City -- th…

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The seasonal produce of Western New York is our reward for surviving winter. I eat my first lush tomato still warm from the sun, and somewhere the last pile of dirty parking lot snow melts away. Mowing down a cob of festival corn, the flavor makes it easy to remember it was grown in Eden. When I stand over the sink with my second Niagara County peach of the day, Western Ne…

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We were somewhere around the third course, cavatelli pasta with lamb neck ragu, when the epiphany began to take hold.It happened last week, after I flew to Manhattan for dinner. Adam Goetz, of Craving on Hertel Avenue, was offering “Summer’s End Farm Feast,” six courses with wine, at the James Beard House. Getting an invitation to cook there has been compared to an Emmy no…