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Unwind with a scrumptious, quick meal at Ultima Taco

We are busy gardening, biking and beaching. We are dirty and sweaty, too.

So, sometimes, we don’t want to get all gussied up to go out to eat. A place like Ultima Taco comes in handy for such days.

Just short of being a roadside stand, Ultima is a take-out location, with a couple of picnic tables out front for the summer.

The quirky and super-clean interior only has the counter and chairs that line the walls. It reminded us of a waiting room. “Congratulations, the root canal was successful, and here’s your Super Ultima Taco.” (We made that up.)

Ultima Taco owner Dylan Biddeman makes a beef taco. (Harry Scull Jr./Buffalo News)

Ultima has been around since 1981, when current owner Dylan Biddeman’s great uncle Paul Giese opened at the original Seneca and Harlem location. It was once the office of his great grandfather, who was the town supervisor.

A neat picture (circa 1951) graces the wall with the sign, “Elect Republican Candidate Albert J. Giese,” alongside pictures of retro Ultima Taco racing cars owned by various family members. In 2014, Ultima moved to its current location, only to be buried in the “snowvember storm.” That picture hangs, too.

The menu is everything you would imagine. Ultima Super Tacos (beef, chicken fajita, tuna, chicken finger, steak) run $3.95 to $5.50; beef, bean and cheese burrito combos are $3.75 to $5. A veggie taco is $3.25 to $4.

Our choices were delicious for two reasons — nice quantity/quality of fillings and super fresh soft tortillas. The Super Ultima ($5 large) had lots of beef with fresh shredded lettuce, cheese and tomato. The small beef, bean and cheese burrito ($5), was straight, no veggies, with ample fillings.

I loved my large beef nacho taco ($5.75). Made with nacho chips and nacho cheese in addition to the beef and veggies, it had a nice kick (ordered medium) along with the crunch from the chips. The large chicken version is $6.25. The small chicken fajita taco ($4.25) was made with really flavorful, tender marinated meat.

Ultima Taco owner Dylan Biddeman makes a beef taco. (Harry Scull Jr./Buffalo News)

Orders come wrapped in brown paper bags, the tacos wrapped in white paper. No fuss. We slapped down on the picnic table to eat.

Ultima also serves hot sandwiches (burgers and chicken) for $4.50 to $4.75. Full or half hot and cold subs are the usual ($4.50 to $10.95). Chicken fingers straight or dinners with fries are $9.95 to $18.95. Salads — chef, chicken fajita, taco  — are $2.95 to $7.95.

Side orders are the things of a deep fried fantasy — cauliflower or mushrooms ($5.85), fries ($3.25), mac and cheese bites ($5.95), pepper poppers ($5.95), et al.

Our onion rings ($3.45) needed a little salt, but were hot and crispy. Ultima nachos ($5.95) or Ultima fries ($6.50) pile on cheese, meat, sour cream, etc.

Hot sauce is spread across an Ultima Taco. (Harry Scull Jr./Buffalo News)

A lunch special (11 a.m. to 3 p.m.) will net you a half cold sub or a large taco with a bottled beverage for $6.50.

Ultima even does dessert — apple ($2.95) or cherry ($3.25) deep fried tacos made with pie filling are topped with white icing.

Our delicious and messy cherry reminded us of a maxed out Toaster Strudel. But it was OK, because when you’re already in your dirty gardening shorts, it doesn’t really matter.

CHEAP EATS

Ultima Taco

507 Center Road, West Seneca (677-9314)

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Price range: Cash only. $3.95-$18.95 (10-piece chicken finger dinner with fries).

Parking: Small side lot or street.

Wheelchair-accessible: Yes. No indoor tables. Picnic tables outside.

Gluten-free options: No.

Ultima Taco, pictured on Wednesday, June 21, 2017. (Harry Scull Jr./Buffalo News)

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