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Explore New-School Buffalo food

Through the relationship between ambitious local chefs and nearby farmers, several Buffalo restaurants have embraced the farm-to-table movement to offer diners seasonally fresh dishes that are expertly prepared.

In Andrew Galarneau's New-School Buffalo food manifesto -- an article inspired by Craving chef Adam Goetz's dinner at the James Beard House in New York City -- the News Food Editor explains why local eaters should appreciate the extra work, thought and money that these chefs take in order to serve the best ingredients possible.

"...the easiest way to run a restaurant is to order all your food from a website. Everything shows up on a truck, washed and trimmed and portioned out, guaranteed. The hard way is doing things like spending $1,400 on a pig and developing the skills, tenacity, menu imagination and storage to make that pig pay out."

Adam Goetz's cavatelli pasta with Stillwater Farm lamb neck ragù, carrot confit, and CRāVing’s asiago pressato. (Andrew Renneisen/Special to The News)

Adam Goetz's cavatelli pasta with Stillwater Farm lamb neck ragù, carrot confit, and CRāVing’s asiago pressato. (Andrew Renneisen/Special to The News)

One of the best examples of the execution of this trend comes during the summer and fall months, when the harvest is plentiful and vegetables are in abundance. Read Galarneau's "New-School Buffalo: The producers" on the cover of The Buffalo News' Taste section, or online here.

"[New-School Buffalo chefs] work with local farmers to an unusual extent, and treat the vegetables and fruit they receive with the care Michelangelo had for his paints. Vegetables aren’t a “side” here – they get a starring role."

Summer vegetable salad with Patom Farm hay at Rue Franklin. (Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News)

Summer vegetable salad with Patom Farm hay at Rue Franklin. (Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News)

See the print layout of The Buffalo News' Wednesday Taste section cover or download the PDF below.

Where can you find New-School Buffalo cuisine?

Besides Craving, 1472 Hertel Ave., try...

Carmelo Raimondi’s Carmelo’s, 425 Center St., Lewiston [read the review]

Steven and Ellen Gedra’s The Black Sheep, 367 Connecticut St. [read the review]

James and Connie Roberts’ Toutant, 437 Ellicott St. [See the Starters photo gallery]

Edward Forster’s Buffalo Proper, 333 Franklin St. [read the review]

Ristorante Lombardo, 1198 Hertel Ave., with Chef Michael Obarka [read the review]

Elm Street Bakery, 72 Elm St., East Aurora, with Chef Brad Rowell [read the review]

Marble + Rye, 112 Genesee St., from Michael Dimmer and Christian Willmott [read the "Starters"]

Hutch’s, Oliver'sTrattoria Aroma, Rue Franklin, Osteria 166, Martin Cooks and Black Iron Bystro also make notably extensive use of local produce. Chances are whatever Bruce Wieszala does next will qualify as well. Formerly at Bourbon & Butter, he’s a chef in between kitchens.

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