Starters: Burgers, onion rings impress at Roaming Dee's - The Buffalo News

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Starters: Burgers, onion rings impress at Roaming Dee's

Roaming Dee's, the joint brick-and-mortar restaurant venture of Christopher and Valerie Taylor, owners of The Roaming Buffalo Food Truck, and Michael DiJoseph, of Mikey Dee's Catering and Food Truck, has served customers for nearly two months at 6831 Seneca St. in Elma.

Replacing Cobber's By the Creek, whose connected business, Cyber Creek Indoor Golf, saw its roof collapse during the November Storm, the Taylors and DiJoseph have blended their food truck menus, staffed a fully-stocked bar and restructured the dining area to allow for more seating.

The outside of Roaming Dee's, formerly Cobber's By the Creek. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

The outside of Roaming Dee's, formerly Cobber's By the Creek. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

The menu, pictured here, is a collection of wings, burgers, sandwiches and appetizers -- classic Buffalo fare with a few notable twists. Roaming Dee's has yet to follow through on its plans for over 30 wing flavors, but there's plenty of time for the Elma restaurant to evolve.

Note: Read about The Dizzle and the WTF Burger, staples of the Roaming Buffalo Food Truck and also available at Roaming Dee's, in this Cheap Eats.

The Dizzle (choice of cheese, sauteed portobello mushrooms, drunken onions, house-made garlic aioli, comes with choice of side), $9.99:

Roaming Dee's Dizzle Burger is a half pound burger with sauteed portobella, drunken onions, topped with house-made aioli with a side of homemade potato chips. (Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News)

Roaming Dee's Dizzle Burger is a half pound burger with sauteed portobello mushrooms, drunken onions, topped with house-made garlic aioli with a side of homemade potato chips. (Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News)

WTF Burger (bacon, choice between creamy or crunchy peanut butter, and house-made bacon jam, with choice of side), $9.99:

The WTF Burger from Roaming Dee's can be ordered with either creamy or crunchy peanut butter. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

The WTF Burger from Roaming Dee's can be ordered with either creamy or crunchy peanut butter. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

Here are the new items we tried during our visit:

Single order of Louisiana BBQ wings, $9

The Louisiana BBQ wings from Roaming Dee's. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

The Louisiana BBQ wings from Roaming Dee's. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

First take: Impressive in size and aggressively sauced, these are suitable for lovers of sweeter wings, which are relatively rare in Buffalo. Peach Bourbon is the other atypical flavor -- Taylor can be adventurous with his sauces -- while Cajun and garlic Parmesan accompany the usual hot, medium, mild and barbecue. Our advice? Choose simply with medium or hot.

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Pulled pork grilled cheese (slow-roasted, Carolina-style pulled pork with pepperjack and American cheeses grilled on sourdough bread), $7.99.

The pulled pork grilled cheese from Roaming Dee's. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

The pulled pork grilled cheese from Roaming Dee's. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

First take: Creative grilled cheeses on Al Cohen's rye bread are DiJoseph's specialty, and this pulled pork version isn't far from exceptional -- it's just missing one thing. Neither of the two cheeses stick out prominently in flavor -- some bites give you a jolt of pepperjack -- and pulled pork is a more muted meat, which leaves the total package a little bland. Accompany this grilled cheese with tomato soup or a spicy dipping sauce, and we'd order it in a heartbeat.

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The Roaming Dee's Burger (signature house burger topped with chicken wing dip, jalapenos and American cheese), $9.99

The Roaming Dee's Burger from Roaming Dee's. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

The Roaming Dee's Burger from Roaming Dee's. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

First take: Chicken wing dip on a burger? We had to try what was billed as the perfect combination of The Roaming Buffalo and Mikey Dee's, and where other dishes may have lacked in flavor, this was bold and exceeded our expectations. This isn't an attempt to mask an inferior burger -- there are options on the menu, like the B-Lo Classic Burger, that celebrate the basics -- it's appealing for the eater who demands taste-bud tingling foods.

The fresh jalapenos lend most of the spicy punch, while the chicken wing dip offers a little creaminess without making the whole experience painfully salty. The Roaming Dee's Burger will undoubtedly fill you up, too.

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Fish tacos (Pabst Blue Ribbon-battered cod with a mango-jalapeno slaw, drizzled with a cilantro-lime aioli), $10

The fish tacos from Roaming Dee's are made from beer-battered cod. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

The fish tacos from Roaming Dee's are made from beer-battered cod. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

First take: Don't order these thinking they'll mimic Lloyd Taco's fish tacos; Roaming Dee's version is beer-battered, not panko-crusted, which means there's an initial crunch but more fish than batter, overall. The pros: a nice spicy kick from the slaw, the lack of batter and quality cod. The cons: far too much slaw, to the point where it hid the subtle flavor of the fish.

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Onion rings, $5

The onion rings from Roaming Dee's on Seneca Street. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

The onion rings from Roaming Dee's on Seneca Street, pictured as a side, not a full order. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

First take: Customers raved about Taylor's onion rings on The Roaming Buffalo, and little has changed at Roaming Dee's. Like all onion rings, they should be eaten hot, but they're outstanding -- crispy outside, tasty batter and flavorful onions. Simple, but executed very well. Taylor's fresh, hand-cut fries are also better than average.

Here's a quick peek around the restaurant:

The bar area at Roaming Dee's in Elma. (Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News)

The bar area at Roaming Dee's in Elma. (Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News)

The dining area across from the bar of Roaming Dee's. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

The dining area across from the bar of Roaming Dee's. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

The artwork on Roaming Dee's bar was done by the sister of co-owner Valerie Taylor. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

The artwork on Roaming Dee's bar was done by the sister of co-owner Valerie Taylor. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

A design behind the bar that acts as a silhouette of Buffalo's city skyline. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

A design behind the bar that acts as a silhouette of Buffalo's city skyline. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

Roaming Dee's has typical bar games like pool and darts (two dartboards, actually). (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

Roaming Dee's has typical bar games like pool and darts (two dartboards, actually). (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

Another piece of artwork representing Buffalo on a wall near the bar. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

Another piece of artwork representing Buffalo on a wall near the bar. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

These two windows at the back of the bar weren't open during the Cobber's era. Now, they look out over the driving range. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

These two windows at the back of the bar weren't open during the Cobber's era. Now, they look out over the driving range. (Ben Tsujimoto/Buffalo News)

Email Ben Tsujimoto, whose favorite Roaming Dee's burger is the WTF, at btsujimoto@buffnews.com

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