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Expanded Dockside broadens menu

The Dockside Bar & Grill reopened alongside the Erie Canal in North Tonawanda this spring, having added a two-story addition, 100 seats, and an overhauled kitchen.

There are so many people coming to the new place, and the established Remington Tavern across the street, that on a fine summer evening last week I had to sweat finding a parking spot in downtown North Tonawanda, an unfamiliar and exhilarating experience.

A visit last week to the restaurant, 153 Sweeney St., found a nearly full house tucking into offerings from a tavern menu with upscale touches. Besides the usual burgers, wings and fries, Chef Dunbar Berdine has added entrees like a buttermilk fried chicken dinner ($16) and steampots, of seafood, and a vegetarian option, julienned vegetables and noodles in a red miso broth ($16).

Sweet potato fries with dipping sauce ($5) were house-cut, soft but fresh.

Sweet potato fries with honey butter at Dockside Bar & Grill (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Sweet potato fries with honey butter at Dockside Bar & Grill (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

The house-made Tots were fun, softly crusted spheres of potato with Gouda cheese and scallions, served with an addictively sweet and spicy honey cayenne sour cream.

House made Tots at Dockside Bar & Grill (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

House made Tots at Dockside Bar & Grill (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

The Caesar salad ($9) was fresh and tangy, with excellently crunchy house-made croutons.

Caesar salad at Dockside Bar & Grill (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Caesar salad at Dockside Bar & Grill (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Pork carnitas tacos ($13 for 3) weren't traditional Mexican, with all that thick-cut red cabbage, but they were plenty tasty, with tender, rich pork and spicy mayonnaise.

Pork carnitas tacos at Dockside Bar & Grill (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Pork carnitas tacos at Dockside Bar & Grill (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

The grilled fish tacos ($13), made with swordfish on this particular night, were a hit too, with flaky fish, plenty moist, with crunchy, fresh accompaniments.

Grilled fish tacos at Dockside Bar & Grill (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Grilled fish tacos at Dockside Bar & Grill (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

The fried chicken (picture at top), marinated in buttermilk and dipped to order, was a thigh, drumstick and breast-wing segment. It was juicy and well-cooked. Its crust was a bit tougher than the chicken I had at Toutant recently, but it was a worthy chicken dinner, and I ate every scrap. The macaroni and cheese was lightly cheesed, but pleasant, with firm pasta and a crown of toasted crumbs.

As we ate, we admired the spiffied-up interior.

Interior of expanded Dockside Bar & Grill sports spiffy new light fixtures (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Interior of expanded Dockside Bar & Grill sports spiffy new light fixtures (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Wall and bench treatment at Dockside Bar & Grill (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Wall and bench treatment at Dockside Bar & Grill (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Table in Dockside Bar & Grill celebrates Erie Canal proximity (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Table in Dockside Bar & Grill celebrates Erie Canal proximity (Andrew Galarneau/Buffalo News)

Send your restaurant tips to agalarneau@buffnews.com

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