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OUT TO EAT / Great dishes, drinks and people

It's like eating in Taiwan

Buffalo is a long way from Taiwan, but Ed Young is doing his best to make it seem closer.

Owner of Kung Food (3268 Main St., 836-3268,, Young is a Buffalonian with Taiwanese parents who married a Taiwanese woman he met at the University at Buffalo. Her parents run a restaurant in Taiwan, and they helped him shape his place, which opened in February.

Kung Food specializes in small, fast meals and bubble tea. A good example is Night Market Pork, a thin slice of tenderized pig coated in bread crumbs and expertly fried until crunchy and nearly free of grease. It's showered with a peppery spice mixture and served over white rice with sweet house sauce and two sides; it sells for $6.99.

Besides similarly crispy chicken and fish, plain or spicy, there's seared spicy tofu saute and a few more dishes, such as grilled pork, kalbi-style Korean beef short ribs and Japanese-style curry.

"We have had Taiwanese students who came to our restaurant, and after eating they said, " 'It's like being at home,' " Young said. "That was good to hear."

-- Andrew Z. Galarneau